RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

jwscab wrote: ↑Thu Sep 14, 2017 11:07 am got my entries about 99% now.

Like those paint jobs... no 10T? I just realized yesterday, I didn't have a body for my 10T but luckily I had a single unpainted one in the pile of bodies. Glad I suck at painting... so it only takes a couple days to do one.

I have so much crap I want to bring, I ended up going to HomeDepot on the way to work to buy a rolling/stackable set of toolboxes. LOL.

Does this ever turn into a swap-meet type thing? Should I bring my boxes of torn down RC10s, vintage parts, and electronics?

Even bashing, the Titanium ti-rods are a good idea in case you clip some obstacle. Often you can pick up the stock ReRe turnbuckle bag from the kit that someone didn't use in forums and ebay. eg. I have one in the bag I'd sell at some point. Good RPM ballcups are a nice cheap upgrade over stock AE o...

That is one sharp looking car. The rear droop could be a few things... maybe they forgot the shock travel limiters inside one shock on the shaft. I've seen the rear arm kinda rub the chassis preventing down travel. Also sometimes the arms aren't perfectly symetrical too and depending on the camber l...

well according to the website... https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/7665-ASC7665-drive_shaft_roll_pins/ It appears to be the correct part number. Wouldn't put it past them to have actually packaged the wrong part in the right bag or put the right part in the wrong bag. If it was a NIP thin...

Depends on the drive shafts... if you have bones, 6802 is really all you need to use new wheels I believe. Should still probably get it to get the new bearings and hub carriers... or you could source those separately if you wanted. If you have old AE universals... then you need to probably upgrade t...

Personally I've gone with Worlds ReRe style wheels on most of the RC10s I have to. It gives me easier access to wheels and lets me run current rubber. It's more difficult to find "new" wheels and tires to fit the older, larger rear axles. I do have several sets of 3 piece wheels that I kee...

Yeah, the RCE guys for the regular racing were super nice. I just tried to make clean laps and stay out of the way. Several of the regulars came up to thank me and chat for driving clean, being aware on the track and giving them a good lane to get by. Also gave me a few good pointers to help get my ...

The guys there do a great job. It's a good track inside and outside. Crawler tracks inside and out plus a carpet track. Good hobby shop with helpful staff. They hold some pretty big races.

I suck. Haven't raced competitively in like 20 years when the cars were actually current. Lol. I just the clock.

If anyone's interested, RCE just posted the new track layout for the race.

https://www.facebook.com/rcexcitement/

Yeah, i noticed they really didn't suggest anything in terms of how to attach that. I have one myself and was going to attach the front of the tray under a kydex skid bumper I have, then I believe you can use the nose-brace side screws, the rear bulkhead side screws, and up around the back to the mo...

I second the upgrade to the v2 slipper. I've bought parts to upgrade most of my older stealths. Sometimes if you do get some slipping, you can rough up the slipper disc(s) with some fine grit sand paper. Also wouldn't hurt to rebuild the diff. Or just be like me... I pretty much bought a diff rebuil...

So you think the aluminum will hold up to a 17.5+ brushless?

FYI, if you contact TBG directly, you can save a few dollars vs. using their eBay store.