The way the motor is laid out the motor torque will help load the chassis to improve forward bite. Rather than torque side to side and upset the tweak, it essentially pushes down on the front tires. I see. I reckon it's the same logic behind the addition of a fourth gear in the gear boxes of modern...
I read a recent thread about touring car manufacturer representation at a recent ETS event, and if I recall correctly Awsomematix was the second most abundant chassis behind the xray cars. Agree, the tranny is a fascinating design. However, knowing that bevel gears are less efficient at transferrin...
As I understand it, the re-released parts are designed to be extremely faithful to the original with only very minor changes made in order to protect the collector market. I can't find it right now but soon after the RC10 was re-released, someone posted a video on youtube showing both cars with box-...
I really like where you're going with this. I keep promising myself that I will build a OIN one of these days; I just need a set of front arms. Anyway, in the 3rd installment of your saga, you are singing the praises of the AE Stealth gear box and it reminded me of one of my own. I won a well used v...
The transmission is neat too :mrgreen: Agree, the tranny is a fascinating design. However, knowing that bevel gears are less efficient at transferring power than straight cut gears, why do you suppose they are utilizing three sets of bevel gears where only two sets are required (one at each end of ...
I guess where I went wrong is making two kits into one. I wanted not only Lipo compatibility but also an adjustable chassis like the old Advanced Engineering kits where the user could buy one bag of parts and have it fit most any body. I think the best way around this is to make one solid plate tha...
simple and smart - I like it :) A bit worried about front-end solidity, though, with those bolted-on fixed "C-Arms" :shock: I thought the same thing. However, if it would clear the servo, you could attach a brace that spans the steering blocks. Just run longer 8-32 screws through the bloc...
simple and smart - I like it :) A bit worried about front-end solidity, though, with those bolted-on fixed "C-Arms" :shock: I thought the same thing. However, if it would clear the servo, you could attach a brace that spans the steering blocks. Just run longer 8-32 screws through the bloc...
Well, since it's apparent that your not going for an authentic RC10 restoration look, I'd say go ahead and trim the lip. However, with that extra wide bead on the tire, won't that cause the bead to protrude past the edge of the wheel (assuming the inner edge of the bead is properly seated against th...
Really nice car! Restore it how you want. The re release parts are perfectly fine if you don't have a problem with them. +1 I agree completely; rere parts are fine to use. I have the modern body, wing and decal set on my dad's old Edinger and I'm perfectly happy with them. Others may disagree but I...
That is SWEET! A t-bar pan car with a standard form lipo center-mounted. Don't think I've seen that before. Should work perfectly in just about any racing class. Good job!!
Ouch! That's a common problem since the chassis is very narrow and weak in that area. I've had two break that way (SC10 and B4.1) until I reinforced the chassis with an aluminum plate. I think someone over at the RCShortCourse.com forum was selling the plates. Anyway, it sounds like you had fun and ...
Thanks R16, curiously 62mm is the same length Tower Hobbies is showing for the recently discontinued ASC9911 bone (I need these for my vintage runner). I'll certainly want to confirm the 9911's length but if it truly is the same as the Yok bone you've referenced, I'll give it a try. Thanks again.
Sure enough, you are correct Peter. The re-released XLS actually uses the same width steering rack as the original SWB car. Do you reckon they did that for ackermann; effectively providing a bit more aggressive steering for the longer wheelbase car? Anyway, for accuracy, I really should pull apart t...