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That's pretty sweet looking. I'm a sucker for real carbon fiber parts.

I didn't find the difference, so I went ahead and bought a 3928 which was described as being 'long', since no one ever complains about having too much heat sink. Things have gotten busy though and I haven't had a chance to look it over yet.

Without going through a full battery, I did a spot check of the temperatures. My son running the 7 cell was hottest at 223 F. Father in law was 209 F. Mine was 190 F. Hmm, BITD with NiCd I would bring a crew packs with me to do back to back runs. Of course I didn't think about temperatures, other th...

That's a fantastic collection of motors. There's quite a few that I've never heard of before.

Thanks. I'll keep this on mind while doing some temperature trials.

PM is stuck in my outbox. Not sure if that means you can't receive PMs or I can't send.

For that nylon rear pod, if you get in a jam needing one, I think there are a few of us on here that do some 3D printing. I'm currently printing my part projects in nylon and could probably work this in. However I'd need a sample part to take measurements from to design the print model.

Are you also getting a carbon pinion from them? I just noticed those. My pinions are all old steel ones so I'm interested to see thoughts on those.

I'm not seeing any bigger 32p spurs at Kimbrough than your 54 tooth. I run their 96 tooth (48 pitch) spur, and I have pinions down to 16 tooth, so that is a usable size option.

The annoying thing with 32 pitch (from my way back years) is there were metric cut and USCS cut gear teeth. I used to have different 32P pinions for my 12i and for my Turbo Optima. The metric pinions always seemed to have a thicker, more elliptical tooth shape. Packages never seemed to state a diffe...

An oddball endbell in a group of new additions.

Ok, I understand better now. This is basically a plastic pin through the end of the link and it has a steel pin core. Seems like it should be rebuildable, just a matter of whether parts are available or need to be fabricated.

It looks like there should be enough space to package up the chassis with my old tech stuff. PXL_20210511_144045713.jpg I'm thinking about trying to form an undertray from .030" sheet Lexan. If it goes well, I might get inspired to start making undertrays for all of the RC runners my son and I ...

I looked closer and it looks like I've lost some little plastic cover. Are there replacement pin covers, or do I need a new dogbone section of this CVD? My past experience is.with regular cheapo dogbones, not CVDs.

While looking at the JConcepts site, I noticed they put a recommendation to try and stay in the 115 - 120F temperature range, and caution going above 150F (I'm assuming their remarks are in deg F). This gives me a target to try for.