RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

bismuth wrote: ↑Mon Oct 19, 2020 4:48 pm
The integrator is what makes this car unique. It is the perfect example of overengineering and the car is easier to setup and run without.
But this setup is part of its british charm.

LOL

I'm workin on it!

Just got some more aluminum tube to finish the cage. Unfortunately, remodeling my kitchen keeps getting in the way.

I also ground down the Optima front knuckles, as they are taller than SRB knuckles, and take away a little front end travel in stock form.

I have done old Novaks and Tekins before, and one tip is to ream the hole for the wire once you have removed the old wire. Run a drill bit the size of the hole through by hand to remove any solder running over the edges. Otherwise, the wire will be hard to seat in the hole, even if you pre tin it, w...

I don't count the prototype cars of the 80's or 90's because those were allowed by the rules. I do, vaguely, recall someone once building an electronic traction control system in the early 90's, but don't recall who and think it was immediately banned. I'm pretty sure this was GM Racing of Germany....

At one point it was pretty much Sagami (for Yokomo) and Tokyo Mechs (trinity) as rc car motor base component manufacturers from what I understand. There had to be some others but those were the two top companies. I'm not sure where Air Supply (CAM, Wimpy) came from, for example.

The stratus body was the best handling body of the era. The Losi body was the same as the Andy's, which was the original stratus. Protoform and HPI also made a stratus, as the shape just happened to be best for sedan at the time.

I would not run that motor again. If you got smoke out of it, something is shorted. Did you disassemble the motor and inspect it? You should inspect the stator for any discolored or melted varnish on the windings. Running a burnout in a car is far more stressful than spinning a motor up on an analyz...

It's pretty much universal. A lot of escs have an unsensored mode, though most motors you would use in your Losi cars would be sensored. A lot of guys do buy non sensored stuff, but sensored has a little better control. 17.5 is probably closer to 19t at this stage. 21.5 is closer to the old 27t stoc...

All the losi belts from the SW/XX4, XXXS, etc break down with age. Even if you find them NOS they will probably be no good. Tough Racing should have them for sale, but in a different material. Street weapons also used a smaller hex with zero offset wheels, at a time when almost every other sedan use...

Slot car brushes should fit the Checkpoint motor - most any slot car track should be able to help you.

Gears are : Rear: topshaft- STRC B4 slipper shaft - https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-racing-concepts-cnc-machined-transmission-layshaft-sptst3793ae/p185515 - and this gear (which needs to be slotted to fit the shaft) - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brass-Gear-tamiya-sand-scorcher-SRB-rough-rider-fighting-...

Made a little progress today

4wd_srb_chassis.jpg I got the chassis cut out and suspension mounted. I'll have to make a roll hoop to mount the shocks in the rear. The motor is going to hang off the back Scorpion style. I think the 3d parts will get dyed too, they get dirty if you handle them too much when you're mocking things ...

Carknowledge101 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 16, 2020 2:15 pm Could you share the files for the 3D printed stuff?

Got it from this shapeways store, I believe the designer is a member
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/td3d

In admiration of 1300GT's 4wd SRB, I'm starting on my own attempt at building a similar car. I figured out a B4 slipper gearbox setup in this thread - https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=44855 Now I'm mocking things up for the chassis. 2 3D printed replica MIP gearboxes, 3D Printed fro...