RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

No but a CVD will act a little differently. They have a small amount more "bind" under power which will make the rear of the car straighten up a little more when you apply throttle off of the turn. One of the main reasons everyone changes to them is to also adapt to the more common axle si...

I was surprised to find many old RC10 parts on Amazon.com, that's worth checking out.

My old runner still has the AE cups which are very small profile, are there any crowding/space issues with Jcon or RPM cups? Thinking of the inner steering and camber link which is tight.

Charlie don't surf wrote:Yup they are 1.5 per side inboard- and you do know you are giving setup advice to a former IFMAR worlds qualifying driver?

I saw in there somewhere that he said he had a 14 year layoff. Besides, what should it matter if it's useful advice?

Functionally the same, the cup is on the axle with a CVA, on the bone with a CVD. If I recall the naming difference has more to do with naming/design rights owned by MIP.

Great read Ruffy, I'm planning on getting an old RC10 together, maybe to run stock with (whatever that means in the world of Tekin RS' :lol: ). I read that you're having bottoming problems so I looked at your setup and saw something I though you should try. On the rear end, change to #2 pistons with...

Hey Doug, what kind of rear track do you get with that recipe? Closer to stock RC10 or to B4? Clean job as always! Thanks. The rear track is very close to an original RC10, when you include the B4 wheel/offset. Measured from the face of the drive pin wheel mounting area without wheels on, then meas...

Thanks for all the photos and info Doug. This is the best resource for a practical RC10 re-furb/modernization I've found anywhere. Hopefully I'll get mine together and we can show em' how it "used to be done" in the day at Lake in the Hills' new track. Will you be up at Trackside at all th...

The reason I ask about the inner ball stud location is because if you don't lower it the same amount of height as you lose on the outer location going to the B4 hubs then the camber gain will change. The car should lose rear sidebite. Great looking mod, I'm thinking of using Losi CR rear hubs becaus...

Hi Doug, did you move the inner rear ballstud down to compensate for the lower position of the B4 rear hubs?

I have an old RC10 in need of some TLC and was thinking of doing this rear end conversion instead of hunting for rear wheels.

Ya I went over to Novak and found what they were for! Leave them alone for 4-6 cells and solder them together for 7+ Glad to see that is still unused and not messed with. This and some other stuff is going into my roller queen. :D Scott Are you sure that's right? I'm pretty sure thats backwards and...

Too much.. Not only will it push on power, you will struggle to have the right spring rate at correct ride height (roughly arms level). Give it a try but the car will likely be more stable with less travel.

Apparently Duratrax 2.2 wheels for the Evader will fit too, they have the correct offset and are readily available from Tower. The plastic isn't as nice as the current wheels but probably good enough. I haven't tried them yet, still deciding if I want to stay with the stock rear end or change hubs/C...

Bolink Digger
Tamiya Rough Rider/Sand Scorcher
Tamiya Brat
Cox/Kyosho Scorpion
Yokomo Dogfighter
Mugen Bulldog
Tamiya Frog
Tamiya Hornet/Grasshopper
RC10
Kyosho Optima (chain drive)

11. Whatever the Tamiya car that started the touring car class was.

My acetone "sealed tub" consists of an empty 1 gallon paint jug (can be purchased at any hardware store for a coupla bucks.) No problems with loss from evap dut to the good sealing of the lid. I've found that Schumacher tires don't like acetone too well. It will melt the super glue ok, bu...