RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Seeing scr8p's topic with the sweet '68 Cutlass restoration, and since I imagine most RC enthusiasts are also car enthusiasts, I thought I'd share some pictures of what's in my garage. The '70 Charger was the first car I bought, I think I was 19 or 20. I've had it all these years and will never sell...

Another update: Finally got the paint off the wheels. It took alternating baths in brake fluid and spraying with Easy-Off. On some wheels, the paint crinkled up and mostly pulled off easily, but on others, NOTHING would get rid of the crusted paint in the niches except going at it with a needle to t...

Since I'll be eventually upgrading to a brushless ESC & motor combination, I've been doing a lot of research on bulletproofing my T.Optima's drivetrain. Note that I'll be sticking with chain drive for now, as I can't either find or afford a belt drive conversion kit. Upon disassembling my old ge...

I'd definatly look at getting a mamba max pro, and any 13.5-17.5 motor. I have had nothing but great luck with castle. Plus with the castle link tuning is a breeze. Thanks, that's about the ballpark of motor I'm looking at...and the Castle Mamba Max line is one I've been checking out too, but they ...

59burst wrote:what is your ebay ID? I'll talk to him on this

He finally replied, after I made the purchase (but no response to my 2 messages asking questions prior to buying, though).

Looks like you'll need a handful of countersunk screws, too.

Indeed it can. It was a joke, I liked the irony.

This is a good topic, as I'm considering a brushless motor setup for my Turbo Optima on 8.4V. A 4-minute motor back in the 80's was really fast. I'm looking for something maybe just a tad quicker, but not something that'll blow away the gears. The T.O. has a limiter gear to help protect things, but ...

Well, I certainly received the invoice shortly after buying, no delays there!

I've tried messaging him via eBay, but no messages have been answered. I purchased 2 items, and in his description, he states to message what color of anodizing is wanted, or he'll send black. I'm hesitant to buy until I've received confirmation, and besides, communication is very important on eBay ...

Well, here's another update. I played hockey tonight and left the wheels to soak in Easy-Off all night long. I figure they were soaking for 4+ hours. I was expecting to come home to a puddle of plastic glop, but the wheels were intact. Score one for Kyosho! At any rate, I had to give each wheel a th...

scr8p wrote:i've used lacquer thinner on associated nylon without any problem. don't know about kyosho stuff........

Well, I guess nylon is nylon, regardless of who presses it into shapes. What procedure did you use? Brush it on? Soak it for 10 minutes? Bathe it overnight?

Update: I bought some Easy-Off (yellow aerosol can with yellow cap) and sprayed it liberally on a few wheels, let it soak for 10 to 15 minutes (about double what the can suggested) and it didn't do much. The stubborn areas of gold paint are still there, even after vigorous brushing with a toothbrush...

I painted the body of my firebird (airplane, witch has a plastic body) and flaked off the next day !!! When it flaked off like regular Krylon paint, made me think that it is a paint product. Maybe you prepped the surface differently...it suggests to make sure the surface is clean, I even used aceto...

I'd take an Optima Gold Edition too, even though my original Optima basically evolved into a (Turbo) Optima Gold Edition, anyway. I'd love to build another Optima from scratch!