RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

trx1racer wrote:are those threaded rod turnbuckles kinda gay? jk looks nice

lol

a battery side to side is more stable, kinda like the guy in a high wire act with the long pole they use.
a battery front to back is more nimble.

no mod class?

ya might try a little heat and wd40
the wobble is normal because its only supported by one bearing
the manual say use double sided tape to cover the hole......there is a aftermarket aluminum button to also cover the bearing...hot trick i believe

bormac wrote:yeah I remember what it was like being forced to perform under pressure. The pressure of Dazzler wanting victory at the 2 hour enduro....sheesh.

your sig is pretty lame because of one word.
just my opinion.

aluminum ones are losi and i'd guess proline on the others

scr8p wrote:well, if your arm mounts are 1.5 degrees (toe in), and you have 1.5 degree hub carriers (the left one has an L on it, the right is plain), put the left on the right, right on the left, and now you have zero degree toe.

yup thats how we ran our sprinters back in the day.

any pics of the geared side of the car?
this thing looks interesting

JK Racing wrote:

lol

trinity made one that i still have to this day..........doubt that they make it anymore.

howdy

man thats kewl as hell.
congrats

nice ass collection!

Yup, the REAL drawback of the good old Stealth is the slipper thingy that is not captured inside the spur gear, with a hot motor, it always ends up "balooning" with centrifugal force... try to use a milder motor OR, like Hoopty said, mount a B4 top shaft and slipper unit... and as soon as...

i seem to remember race prep making those dog bones...........but i could be wrong
i know T&A made titanium bones