RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Surely there are enough people on here willing to purchase a pair of alloy mounts to make producing a batch financially viable?
Put my name on the list anyway

First race with the OIN RC10 last weekend. Tight and twisty indoor astro track...was amazed how well the car went.....so easy to drive, jumped well and was very nimble in the twisty bits, just lacking a bit of mid corner steering.....my best lap was only 0.10 seconds slower than my B44 on the day!!

Quality is fantastic though so they are worth the price....for me in Ireland the shipping was the most expensive part

First trip to the track with RC10 this weekend, indoor astroturf...will be interesting to see how it compares to B4 Vega conversion

Trucks are certainly cheaper to buy. My 10T cost the equivilant of about 100 dollars and looks like it never turned a wheel....a buggy in the same condition would have been much more. Depends what you want to do with the truck though...if you plan to upgrade arms, CVD`s, shock mounts and turnbuckles...

One thing to note (because it caught me out!) is that the Dynotech arms come as single pieces unlike when you order replacement arms for most buggys and you get a pair. To be fair it does say this on the site but its an easy mistake to make.

That spacer looks fantastic....could be a stock part

Just changed that...thanks for the tip.
Do you run long or short wheelbase at the back?

Not a bad days work...amazing what you can get done on holiday from work!
Got all of the major bits fitted: B4 Slipper/castor blocks/steering knuckles, GT arms/CVD`s, RPM bearing carriers and new steering assembly.
Need to figure out turnbuckles and slipper parts + rebuild the shocks next.

I will be running on grass/loose dirt without slipper locked so should not be as tough on the tranny.

Great thanks :) There are no marks on the tub consistent with the truck being run (Just scratches from ham fisted building) and having just rebuilt the diff I am convinced that this thing saw very very little use if any....slipper pad is like new, gearbox internals were pristine and diff rings were ...

This is my new project, a 10T that I hope to turn into a relaible runner for some practice sessions on a back garden track more suited to a truck than a buggy.
Plans so far are to use GT/T2 arms and CVD`s that I have along with a B4 slipper etc
Any TIP`s or ideas welcome as this is my first T

I was just about to press the button on some T2 CVD`s when I lucked out and found these 3/16" axels in my parts box....never had a T2 so I guess they must be from a B2 that I had??? I used the rest of the parts from the Gas Truck CVD`s Then the RPM carriers, bearings and B4 spacers....parts bin...

Agree about the bearings and spacers but my b4.1 axels are not slotted...when i say cup i just mean the half circlar dome that the rest of the CVD fits into...on the T/ B4.1 this is on axel instead of the drive shaft like older CVD setups
Will keep it simple and use the GT CVD's

Thanks for all your advice but Sorry i am not being very clear. I have gone the usual WOIN route with my buggy with RPM GT 70272 bearing carriers and B44 CVA. I wanted to do something similar with my truck.... I have a spare set of RPM 70272 bearing carriers And 70280 bearings as well as a complte s...