RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

ok i took off my rear shocks and let the buggy rest and the outdrives keep it from let the chassis rest on the table. i guess i could cut the outdrives down and bout a 1/8 inch.. that would keep them from binding.

What would a 81-20 give u?? Before u go out and buy gears, a b4.1 top shaft, slipper will fit in that old stealth,then u can buy newer style gears.

hey jk racing my buggy looks like ur bottom pic but i got 5 washer behind the spacers.

JK Racing wrote:Let me see if I can find my old pictures....no, deepening the inner bearing hole & the hinge pin hole, then use B4 CVDs, not the shorter B44 CVAs.

i got the b44 cvd in the buggy. i tried a set b4 and they was too long when compressed. i didnt deepen the bearing hole

scr8p wrote:did you modify the hub like everyone else had too?

yes i drilled them out with a mill. i got a friend that works at a mechine shop. r u talking about the hinge pin hole right??

scr8p, using B4 rear carriers & B44 rear CVAs, the dogbone plunge is good. I dont have that set up anymore to show it. I personally have changed my car back to standard arms, truck carriers & MIP CVDs (B2) and TT rear wheels. I do feel it handles better. i tried to make a rc10/b4.1 buggy. i...

humor me just a bit more, try 2 more tests...I was just outside messing with my car to see if I can replicate it, and I did...using the short tower & 1.32 shocks :) take the shocks off and let the car settle, does the chassis rest on the workbench? if no pull the ball end out of the diff, and t...

i cant walk out to the moble man cave tonight,(my rc trailer) cause i got to have help walking. but i will try the old tower tomorrow when i get help to walk.

scr8p wrote:a taller tower isn't gonna fix your problem, if anything it'll make things worse (in my opinion).

how much shorter is that cf "b4" tower compared to a stock height tower? 3/16"?

i would say 1/4-3/16 yes.

i have never been a fan of the stock arm/b4 hub carrier setup. it's not a simple combination to put on the car, especially with the machining that needs to be done to the inside of the hub to make it work correctly. without doing that, the car is real narrow and you have to use the inner shock moun...

scr8p wrote:i held a blue ano 1.18 against a 1.18 v2 body and they're the same length.

i wonder if the world arm make a difference or not??

http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p640/sidneytripp/SANY1521_zps67274cac.jpg http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p640/sidneytripp/SANY1520_zps8e7d371d.jpg http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p640/sidneytripp/SANY1519_zps8056bfef.jpg http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p640/sidneytripp/SANY1518_zps...

JK Racing wrote:I wonder if it has anything to do with the V2 shock body being longer...can you caliper/measure the cap to bottom of shock body? I will measure V1 shocks to see the difference.

yes i will. the hole shock, or just the body too??

http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p640/sidneytripp/SANY1509_zpsde9153ee.jpg http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p640/sidneytripp/SANY1507_zpsee0b2ea0.jpg http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p640/sidneytripp/SANY1503_zps2feefc9e.jpg http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p640/sidneytripp/SANY1502_zps...

I picked this up just recently. Did not expect the guy to accept my price, but here it is. It was an impulse buy for certain. CE version with an 'A' stamped chassis. With: Novak Mercury receiver, HPI Racing ESC, Futaba servo, original AE competition motor. The chassis is not absolutely perfect or p...