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gomachv wrote:Yes, but as I showed in my video the idler is most of the problem

Ya I agree. I don't know why someone would do the scenario I mentioned, but it is possible.....and for reasons mentioned, kinda not.

With all of the variables in assembling these things due to some parts being considered "good" and some being "bad", I'm not sure if it's ever been mentioned that if you wanted to use a USA case (6565) and a Worlds idler (the one that comes with a separate gear, shaft and two bea...

Okay so I finally have the parts I was waiting for from Stormer. Now that I'm assembling a Stealth transmission for the first time, I have a few questions: 1. per the instructions, is backing-off the diff bolt a 1/4 turn (from a fully compressed spring) the best tightness/resistance? 2. I now have 2...

See, that speaks directly to my inquiry...and confusion. You'll get 40% of your mAh that way, but you'll still get a full load of volts. Most of the discussion here has been towards limiting the voltage, for which, on an Onyx charger, you have to unplug early as there is no "storage" funct...

I'm STILL waiting for Stormer to send me the right parts....the ones I ordered originally but they didn't send me. They're on some ridiculous fact checking mission on what I refered to as the "USA" case and idler. (6565 & 6370). They've "never heard of that." I sent Bob Storm...

I still don't have my "correct" parts from Stormer after they sent me a bastardized Worlds Stealth kit when I ordered a 6560 kit. Numerous unanswered emails now after agreeing to send me a US case, B4 top shaft, US idler and a trans brace (missing). He said it would take about a week, mayb...

Whoa....mind = blown

So for sure it's the voltage you want to keep down, not the mAh?

To me the voltage seems like the zap. The punch. Whereas the mAh is the fuel in the tank.

Oh well. Easy enough to knock the top off with a bit of a run.

My charger doesn't have a "storage" function but I can program 10 different presets and within each, certain parameters are adjustable (battery type, # of cells, mAh rating and charge rate in amps) so, for my 6000mAh batteries, to charge to 50% would I simply set it up to a 3000mAh batter...

Thanks for all of the replies guys. You're making sense (rather, I'm grasping it), but I have a further question.... My charger doesn't have a "storage" function but I can program 10 different presets and within each, certain parameters are adjustable (battery type, # of cells, mAh rating ...

These are the batteries I have -- http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17265__Turnigy_nano_tech_6000mah_2S2P_65_130C_Hardcase_Lipo_Pack.html

I'd better take a closer look at my charger settings.

Awesome....I'm lost.

Isn't 7.4v full? ....wait, that must be per cell then. So 14.8 is full? Mine are 2S2P if that confuses things even more???

But once that's clarified, do you guys just unplug the battery at that point or do you set up a battery profile with those specs? (I think I can do that)

To start, my understanding is that it is not ideal to leave LiPo's when not in use (days or weeks between runs) at full charge. I believe I have read that around 40% is most recommended. Good so far? So, how do I charge my batteries to 40%??? I have an Onyx 235 charger which I believe is similar to,...

I waterproofed both of them and added a brushless setup in the JK. They definitely have their weaknesses...like the steering links, shock hoops, 3-link suspension, leaky shocks, etc. But they can take a beating. Back to this.... What is involved with fully waterproofing it? My understanding is that...

Nice.

Is that 4th pic just a weird angle or did you somehow end up with mega rear toe-in?