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Thanks for the offer seasaw but I should be ok to just use the one i've made already, it won't be too hard to make another if I wear it out. The wide diff pulleys were the worst part to make, with so many more teeth to mill out, if MR4 BX ones could be used instead that would be good. Jason i'm prob...

They should be easy to get, they're a common part to break, they always snap the tiny wires off at the connectors

Yeah it requires the sensor wire, should've come with one? Also remember to connect ABC up in the correct order

Nah I machined that part aswell. Does the MR4 BX one have the same number of teeth? I didn't know about the MR4 BX setup until after i'd made this one, that would've been easier to use if they're still available. I also wonder if the MR4 BX pulleys would fit the 870C outdrives.

Yeah the eraser 13.5t should have enough power for the 870c, will give heaps of run time too

I had to make the shaft from scratch on the lathe, goes 5mm through the bearing then steps down to 3/16", the inner plate & pulley is pinned to the shaft and I milled flats further out on the shaft to take the standard outer B4 plate, from there out it becomes a copy of a B4 shaft.

Yeah the big white gear is the spur gear, on mine it had an 81 tooth gear when I got it. I usually use this as a guide for initial gearing then remove a pinion tooth to be extra safe http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/brushless/br_gearing.html It has an explanation down the bottom on how to calculat...

What motor do you want to run?
You won't be able to gear it for a 17.5t unless you can get a spur gear mount for taking standard spur gears, the original spur is too big. Anything 10.5t or faster you should be able to find a ratio with the standard spur.

Almost finished the thing, this is the finished centre slipper & pulleys setup, turns out the front belt is so tight with the top brace I don't need to worry about a tensioner layshaftassembly.jpg I made all four suspension arms from delrin, the front arms are the same as original rear arms with...

They will fit if you modify the mounts, need to be shortened and have material removed from around the outside. But the car will end up too wide with B3 arms. If you can get B2 arms on it with B3 hub carriers it might be narrow enough.

I've never had a problem with AE shocks seals, best shocks ever in my opinion, such a simple effective design and easy to assemble. Now they had to go and complicate it because people can't follow the instruction manual properly. Do they try installing and removing the seals without the special tool...

Don't want graphite... Regular ones are on order too... But, I got some already from my local shop... Thanks! B3's don't have the same problem as B4's with the brittleness of graphite arms, i've never broken one. They sort of have a flexible front end, if you force one arm back it 'parallelograms' ...

Tower have them
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3441&P=7

Definitely the best suited 2.2" rims for the car, way better than those yellow Kyosho ones!

Damn!
Worst i've done was auto feed into a part I was making with the auto feed gears set for threading so it went in fast. Hit the part hard, bent it and jammed the lathe up so it didn't make it to the chuck. Lucky it has a v belt drive so that just slipped til I turned it off.