RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I would assume it's the same as the RC10, using B4 parts.

I scooted it back just a bit, and went for it. I had to shave down the two battery cups to fit a shorty pack. I also drilled and countersunk the holes. Came out good I think, aside from the discoloration on the one battery cup. I think I may change them to black, or dye them. http://i262.photobucket...

Any reason mounting a shorty pack in the shown position would be a bad idea? Seems like it's be good for weight balance, but I could be wrong. What I want is room for the large Castle esc to sit on the floor, and with the fan it can't sit on the sides as it will hit the body. http://i262.photobucket...

Arent 550 cams the same diameter, just longer?

Those GT transmissions make for a great mid motor car.

It will likely end up with a Castle brushless setup, I believe I have one lying around.

Just tires I had lying around. I'd like to have spikeys on the front too eventually. The backs are, begrudgingly, pin wheels. I'd like to change those out too. But, at least now it's a roller.

Got the second Klein arm in, so the front is done now.

So, the nice/bad thing about ordering arms from Dynotech is that they come in singles. I forgot one front arm when I placed my order. The second one is on it's way, and I'll continue then. The goal of the build is to have the car I would have wanted, but couldn't have due to technology, when I was y...

Nice cut job from the template.

Well, at least you now have an extra set of shocks from the RC10T, haha!

Trying to do all the nuts and bolts in Stainless. I usually like the blue stuff, but they look ugly when they get scraped.

I originally wasn't going to do a build thread on this car, but figured what the heck, since I like looking at what other guys are doing. I wanted an "old" car that I can just drive around, whether it be track, street, yard, or whatever. It will be the standard WOIN build for the most part...

Unlike the rears, I don't think anyone uses the fronts for their projects, hence the lack of replies. What I DO know, is the the front and rear centers shafts are different, and the front and rear axles are different.

HOWEVER, I added a bunch of weight to my T5M, and it handled better. I tend to drive heavy vehicles better than light ones. They're too twitchy for me. Sooo, if your RC10T is being twitchy, then it may be a good idea.

LRP is a decent brand. I have no info on that particular charger, but if it was mine I'd use it for Lipo's. I have 4 chargers, and tend to use the old ones most often. There's no magic behind them. The older ones likely just charged at lower amp ratings.