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While I was making some scale license plates for the Blazer (or "tags" as they're called here in the south), I went ahead and made some for the ToyAto. I found blank tag images online (google images) and used MS Word to adjust the scale and add text, then printed them on the office color l...

I've picked-up a second kit (a white one this time) and fitted it with Tamiya Hilux High Lift chrome bits (bumpers, mirrors, roll bar and lights). Cab back and glass and side badges are from RC4WD. I'd planned to paint it like the boxart red Mountain Rider but changed my mind and decided to leave it...

I have to say, Dadio, for someone who was completely new to 3D modeling and printing just a few days ago, you appear to be picking this up rather quickly. Those parts shown above are VERY nice!!

I'm more than a little jealous.

Quickly became a favorite

You made that chain guide? Seriously nice work, F!

The Presto is just a Vanning with a lexan body and a couple longer chassis spacer rods where the cage would usually mount up.


Keith

Let me introduce you my rere top cat schumacher i mod in a rere top cat mid. I made a lot of part to improve the front end steering and suspension. All parts are hand made, no 3D printer. As i run on an astro track, and as i bend the chassis on the rear, i decide to mod the top cat into a mid one. R...

Amazing, Dadio, simply amazing. You have mastered the art of 3D print, that's for sure.
Please send me a PM if I can assist with fabrication of the metal parts - especially the roll-over bar.

As the title says , I'd like to know how reliable an old vintage ESC would be , something like a Novak 410 for instance , I like to run my cars so any electronics need to work plus I don't want to ruin a nice vintage bit of kit by using it . So are any of them properly reliable to use or are they j...

I run several vintage, brushed Novaks in my vintage race vehicles with 2 cell Lipos. With 27T stock motors, I've never had any problems at all, granted I use Lipo cutoffs, too. I've also run several with 19, 17 and even a 12T mod motor. The only problem I've had is burning up the motor brushes. Neve...

anything rated for 6-10 cells and modified motors should be pretty much fine running a reasonable brushed motor (13 turn at the lowest?). Lipo or Nimh, but you just need to realize that these older esc's were not rated to run for more than 6-8 minutes, so heat is the dominant killer, running longer ...

I run several vintage ESC and motor combinations and have no issues. I don't run lipo. NiMh and some older 3000 mAh NiCds - everything works just fine. I have a couple Optima Mid's and my favorite has a LeMans 240SB (that's an old 30,000 RRM mill) with a vintage Tekin 411G. No issues and everything ...

Dadio wrote: ↑Wed Sep 18, 2019 12:27 pm Just been reading old posts on dying nylon , wonder how well it works on printed nylon parts , my wallet groans every time I think these days

My printing company offers it as an option. And ORB delivers dyed parts too

And then here are the final final pics after applying all the decals. Funny, the instruction manual actually contains a guide on where to place everything to match the box art, BUT they actually miss a couple of them.... so keep a keen eye if you want to match the box art. 20191007_180623.jpg 201910...