RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

It took me a long time to install those little gaskets. I was being too careful with them before I realized they were a little stronger than I thought they were. But the FIRST problem for me was finding them :lol: . I think I wasted 15 minutes looking around and thinking that I got a box where they...

That's a very important fact - you can mix and match wheels but not the hex drives because of the axle diameter and taper fit. So, 12mm hex drive has become an industry standard for 1/10th scale RC (even modern crawlers and trail trucks use this system). The original Optima was the first car that I'...

Holy smokes! That looks amazing Justin.
I went with a Mirage body but I really think the Viper is better suited to this car.
Well done sir!!!

Very nice build, Dazza.
I think the B4 is an amazing race car. I have a B4.1 and, performance wise, it really doesn't compared to the earlier RC10s - not that the earlier cars were hard to drive but with the B4 it's so incredibly easy to go fast. The car just stays planted and handles great.

Me too, that red is awesome! It reminds me of the Lola slot car body I had when I was a kid back in the 60's. Anyway, the finished car looks great. Every car has a few flaws and the few yours has are insignificant relative to the completed car. ... so I wouldn't worry about it. It looks fantastic an...

Awesome collection, Steve.
Love it!
Who's supplying your Mid bodies?

Hi JT and welcome aboard.
My Dad and older brother raced karts way back in the '60's.

Hey guys, I'm a new 13 yr. old here, and this is my first post. I got this old Team Associated RC10(built from the kit by my dad and grandpa), and I want to bring it back to life. :D It's also got a Futaba Magnum Junior controller, and I think it may have an aftermarket controller, IDK. Stock motor...

Cool, I'll probably get one of those to learn on/use as a beater body. The current body is original anyway, so I wanna protect it. I also noticed it's got the hot shock tower mount, so that's cool, I wouldn't be surprised if it changed the shock angle for higher performance. I want to get some diff...

Hey Mike, I really don't think 5000 mah is overkill for any RC, it just requires re-charging less often. I'm currently running a cheap 3500kV motor with either a 4000 or 5200 mah 2s lipo in a Turbo Scorpion re-release and it seems to handle the power without a problem. I'm getting around 25 - 30 min...

I'd think it would be a good idea to install a small voltmeter. Or maybe some kind of low voltage cutoff? Or is there some kind of protection components I could install? I know how to solder and have adequate equipment. I checked, and it's two separate heat sinks, I was able to remove the small one...

Futaba Magnum Jr transmitter requires 8 AA batteries. Also, the battery holder can be a little fiddly - sometimes you'll need to reach in and bend the metal connections out a little so they'll make full contact with the battery holder terminals. If the batteries are making contact, the power meter w...

You have an S132H servo! That's my all-time favorite vintage servo - no metal gears or bearings but it's fast, light and small. The disadvantage to not having a power meter on the transmitter is that you won't know when the batteries are going flat and the car could run away from you if it looses si...

It doesn't fully recenter when I let off the steering, and the sound stops once it's "just right" centered-wise. Sometimes the servo seems a little weak. So I take it I should lube up the whole steering system(I use WD-40), and loosen all the fasteners a bit to see if that helps. Otherwis...

They're for setting the individual throttle (high) and brake (low) trim. trottle atv.JPG I haven't tinkered with one of these old radios in ages but if I recall correctly, the manual for your Novak ESC says to set both of the ATV's to full and then set the neutral position with the throttle trim kno...