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That's some nice work, Mike. It looks great with the CC decals.

Anyway, you just can't beat painted stripes.

For decals, I just warm the vinyl with a hair dryer, then press and hold them down tightly with my thumb while the vinyl cools and they will stay in place.

Just a little FYI, the two panels before and after the shock tower are black on box art. I reckon AE has included these masks so customers can personalize their builds -- which is good. Also, box art has side and front windows removed and I've done that in the past but I probably won't do it the 40t...

Speaking of personalized builds, one member on TC has built this beauty: https://i.ibb.co/dBTVcB9/IMG-3078.jpg I think the gold anno with the light blue color he selected looks amazing! You can read about the build and see more pics here: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/106419-wtcc...

... Just remembered I can use PS-55 Flat Clear on the outside of the black panels, to give them the matte/flat finish, and use PS-5 black for everything inside the body. There ya go, that's perfect. Good plan!! You can use the overspray film as masking. I've done that many times and it works great....

... Just remembered I can use PS-55 Flat Clear on the outside of the black panels, to give them the matte/flat finish, and use PS-5 black for everything inside the body. There ya go, that's perfect. Good plan!! You can use the overspray film as masking. I've done that many times and it works great....

Anyway, unlike early T's, these arms will fit either side and there isn't the recess (or notch) that provides additional clearance for the bone. Probably because both top and bottom would require the recess (to make the arm fit either side) and maybe the arm is too thin to accommodate both recesses...

The film is soft and extremely thin so merely the weight of the knife is enough to score through it.
It's a delicate process but the results are worth the effort. You're able to add very fine, high quality painted details to the exterior of the body without the hassles associated with masking tape.

After reading your previous post, I went back and had a closer look. My truck has two left arms. :( I could try to find a right arm but I can't be bothered. I'll just make a shallow notch so both sides have the same droop. I probably have an extra right arm, if that's the same as the GT or the T2. ...

The chassis parts and motor plate look fantastic!

Pardon me, I'll need to avert my eyes while you drop those nice white nylon parts in the dye (so you won't see me cry).

The project is coming along nicely.

... In many of my past projects, I never learn to leave well enough alone, I inevitably found one spot to fixate on, then in an attempt to fix that one tiny little spot, I ruin the project, or make it worse somehow. ... Oh wow, that sounds like me. :? I think it's common to find some variation in t...

FWIW, I like my 40th just as it is. The nylon is nice and white, the anno is brilliant gold/orange and the zinc and black oxide plated parts look good as well. The rest of my RC10 collection is old, the anno is faded and the nylon looks dingy by comparison and some of them have been peroxide treated...

Beautiful prep work!

Can't wait to see it with some color.

Oh man, this is gonna be good.

Shouldn't see much, but different caster blocks do vary the amount or need for washers under the ball studs. As a rule of thumb, try to get the steering rods parallel with the suspension arms and you should see little to no bump steer Ah, I think you've hit the nail on the head. I couldn't find the...

Well, best I can do is 25 degree castor blocks with some shims under the ball stud to bring the links parallel - or closer to it. This setup will be placeholders until I can source the proper ones. I want to keep the project moving forward. Built the shocks today so the chassis is nearly finished. T...

The peroxide method is tried and true. If it hasn't been mentioned, just make sure to rinse/soak the parts after really well. Might want to pay particular attention to blind holes, etc. When going into the peroxide bath, you can drive the air bubbles out with a toothpick or similar. Same with the r...