RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

If you want a dryer and an AMS then get a food dryer , it's what I use , goes upto 75°C and does nylons and PC just fine if you give it enough time , I wouldn't even consider spending big money on a purpose made filament dryer . I looked into a food dryer; it's a great option especially for drying ...

For me it's orange all the way.
And, I were building a Buggy Champ, I'd ditch the radio box, mount the battery to the chassis plate lengthwise and mod the body so the sides roll under like the box art.

Orange feels right. Will also get a vintage/repro decal sheet. Found a set of Centerlines for the 1.7" Tamiya wheels. Had to do it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/332339169637 https://i.imgur.com/54S2EsY.jpg Cool! My very first RC vehicle was painted orange and white so maybe I'm a little biased. I ...

The Manx dune buggy chassis is supposed to be printed out of Nylon, but I used Silver PLA instead, with a 0.20mm layer height and using the Strength preset. https://i.imgur.com/TmzOhs7.jpg Even the ugly side isn't too bad, and was pretty easy to clean the supports off of, for once. https://i.imgur....

Yeah, the rear arms look great this time. What's the bearing fit like; do they drop in or require a push?

Yeah, the rear arms look great this time. What's the bearing fit like; do they drop in or require a push? It was a tight fit, most likely based on the layer height settings, and the unfinished interior of the hub, the model looked great, the print could be better. Couldn't get that bearing back out...

I was curious about adapter layers and found this video helpful. Skip to 7:20:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnujGcSmAjI

By chance, are you also measuring the humidity in the buckets? Maybe knowing the humidity in storage isn't so important since you can always dry the filament when you're ready to use it? Thus, storing the filament in sealed containers with dehumidifiers reduces the time required to dry the filament...

The Scorcher body looks great! The color really pops. I reckon you've found some tiny blemishes because you've examined every square millimeter while you were polishing it. I bet if you sticker it and finish the build, after time you won't even notice those tiny imperfections. I'm writing from exper...

Sorry, the temptation has already been generated.
I also have a few projects in mind that will require tires that are not available so I want an inexpensive printer for that purpose.
I could print them on the P1S but...
It looks like the mini could be the right tool for the job.

https://i.imgur.com/5YlmkBd.jpg Front pivots, rear axles and front springs. https://i.imgur.com/aSZqTRx.jpg Getting close to being done with printing the SRB. Will drill and tap most of this, but probably have to CA or hot glue some things along the way. I tried very hard to model those shock accur...

Your parts are looking great! I'm about to order filament and I'm looking for some advice. Are we selecting PTEG over say ABS for its improved printability? According to these graphs, ABS is stronger and more heat resistant than PTEG. Maybe it's all about the "pungent odors"?? filaments.jp...

But wait, are those hard coated shocks?

The Sharpie looks pretty good, it's not flat black, but it does look like rubber. https://i.imgur.com/PrAruLh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/pe72YnG.jpg Going to finish as much as I can with the pen, and then see if it requires paint. Yes, I agree; the Sharpie looks convincing. FWIW, I use water-based cra...

carloco8 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 05, 2024 8:00 pm Looks like the motor plate is even anodized green this time. The green chassis parts would definitely be sweet for a custom build.

How about a John Deere or a Whole Foods RC10 or maybe a FAV RC10?