RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Will definitely try the decals on body #1. But I have read more than a few times now, that the stripe decals will come up after time, even on the shelf. I already have the 1mm Tamiya curved tape, and the other Tamiya masking tapes for painting the stripes the correct widths. Not sure I'll like the r...

Stealthboy2600 did a nice job with his in gunmetal gray
. https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?p=566263#p566263

The shape of the body doesn't make it easy to cut out. https://i.imgur.com/OebeHzA.jpg Used a little box to get behind the cuts. https://i.imgur.com/XTvPKMi.jpg Decent results for #1, learned what not to do on this one. https://i.imgur.com/L9T5uxM.jpg Getting the masking above the shock towers is no...

Speaking of personalized builds, one member on TC has built this beauty: https://i.ibb.co/dBTVcB9/IMG-3078.jpg I think the gold anno with the light blue color he selected looks amazing! You can read about the build and see more pics here: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/106419-wtc...

... Just remembered I can use PS-55 Flat Clear on the outside of the black panels, to give them the matte/flat finish, and use PS-5 black for everything inside the body. There ya go, that's perfect. Good plan!! You can use the overspray film as masking. I've done that many times and it works great....

Really common issue bitd. They should have just relieved both sizes of the arms

Anyway, unlike early T's, these arms will fit either side and there isn't the recess (or notch) that provides additional clearance for the bone. Probably because both top and bottom would require the recess (to make the arm fit either side) and maybe the arm is too thin to accommodate both recesses...

Woke up on a rainy Saturday, with no real plan, saw the SRB parts spread all over the place, and decided to get into it. Building this the opposite way you should. Get to a step, gather, repair and clean parts as needed, and assemble that step. Rinse and repeat. Makes for a slow build. This is my fi...

Over the last few months I have slowly rebuilt a Wild Willy. I picked it up cheap and found a few broken parts, modeled them and printed replacements including having a stainless steel 3d printed axle tube made. Soaked the body in LA's Awesome for a couple days to get the three layers of paint off. ...

The late 10T kits came with about 600 supplement sheets and that would have been one of them, but they are very easily lost track of. I don't even have that sheet in my stack

A sharp hobby knife/Xacto is what XLR8 is talking about using for sectioning the outer wrap, just cut and peel. But If you go too heavy with a blade on the outside of the body, it can leave a cut line, and if the scoring is too deep, crashing the body could make that score line open up. If all the p...

After reading your previous post, I went back and had a closer look. My truck has two left arms. :( I could try to find a right arm but I can't be bothered. I'll just make a shallow notch so both sides have the same droop. I probably have an extra right arm, if that's the same as the GT or the T2. ...

@XLR8, I have a pile of leftover RC10 GT parts here, that are nearly NOS, most were stock equipment that got upgraded and hardly used.

If the 10T and GT parts are compatible, I have at least (2) pair of rear arms, an RPM set in the bag still too, let me know if you need anything.

Need to dye the white plastics next, will read up on that, and decide to what to put in the brew.

Well after rattling around a bunch of different paint ideas, and looking at Vintage Funco race buggies I decided on a simple paint scheme for my RC10. Didn't feel like dealing with liquid mask this time around so decided to do things like I would have done way back when, using masking tap and spray ...