RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

You caught my attention. Can you tell me any more? I don't know of Dave Geitner , has he used and compared anodized samples? I've ordered a couple of Caswell's dyes and so far haven't had any headway. Almost tried gold n. I did look at there example of gold s, it appeared too bright and too yellow....

Hopefully this one doesn’t walk away on its own

Turns out there was a missing e-clip. I was able to snag one from the handle. I don’t have the pulley yet so I took a dead motor from my pile and made it a sacrifice. Since it didn’t run at all before not much is lost IMG_4287.jpeg Obviously not awesome, but if it runs at all that would be great. I ...

Got the bearing kit, and was going to get started on the rebuild. Looking at the white plastics, I have yellowing in some places more than others. https://i.imgur.com/6jbQK0P.jpg I would like these to be shiny and fresh again. https://i.imgur.com/QjJnncq.jpg But I hear about the hydrogen peroxide p...

I personally have not had a problem with using 3% peroxide, this regular stuff for cuts. I would leave it in a glass jar for a day or two in the sun. None of the parts got brittle or chalky, I do however fully soak the parts in water first so that if there is any material to wick into the nylon it ...

Actually it is recommended you boil the parts after they completed a peroxide bath. With no support I have always done this before. My thoughts were that if the nylon is dehydrated it would absorb water/fluid. So I wanted to hydrate the nylon with plain water first so the peroxide would only be on ...

Also will not boil the parts, but simmer them, just before the boil and for less than 5 minutes to cure. I did the Rit Dymore project recently, near boil with thin parts at 15 minutes, there were 0 negative effects. The molding process to form these parts is well above boiling, so I'll be careful. ...

Fan RC is reproducing them but they appear to be out of stock everywhere. I know Avid makes a version but it's aluminum and I'd prefer a steel shaft and gear. Anyone else making these? I haven't seen them out of steel. The Avid shaft is a good quality one. There has not been a reason for me to brea...

I haven't seen them out of steel. The Avid shaft is a good quality one. There has not been a reason for me to break open any of my built transmissions. I haven't heard of issues like I had with the Dhawk ones either. The factory AE was all steel. FWIW there's one on eBay. If it's the one I'm seeing...

The Manual is online
https://img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10T/Classic_Kit/7002_RC10T-Classic-Kit-manual.pdf

Old style case with spacers and bearing in the case. Felt transmission gasket idler is a part number I don't recognize. Manual with part numbers some references to cc parts, some part numbers not updated around fasteners 15 degree casters 1/4" axle rear Also: Later style steering blocks with a...

Golden arrow(not running)
Original packing, original nicad, docs, box and charger

... We are running chinese $1 a pop bearings these days vs the $80 high end NMB bearings sets back in the day. That's true and the difference is night and day. I have some of those early metal shielded bearings and they're still smooth and spin forever. By contrast, I've had to replace many of the ...

https://www.bocabearings.com/products/05-010c-ys-4689?make=TEAM%20ASSOCIATED&model=RC10 Just saying. And those probably aren't their top of the line bearings. Going back in time the bearings would have been slightly above average price Screenshot 2024-05-31 at 10.21.24 AM.png I have been curiou...

Now I know where my RC10T money is actually going! From Mr. Fan: "Many customers have asked, since we have almost all aftermarket parts made, when we would be able to provide complete kit with all FanRc parts. Here is the answer! FanRC graphite worlds kit is now available! Key features, - Qual...