RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

What’s a numper……
Sorry I’ll see myself out.

Tamiya makes sheets of blank masking paper. It might come in handy.

Might want to ask around with friends and family and see if anyone has a CriCut. I have started experimenting with one myself. Should be able to make some nice cut masks with whatever design you can imagine.

Hi, here is my Rc10 RPM World's 91 conversion with Dynotech Klein Arms and 0.89 front shocks https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/09/28//21092804001026137617591488.jpg https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/09/28//21092803594826137617591485.jpg https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/09/28//2109280359422...

So, a buddy gave me this fine beauty a couple of weeks ago. He got it free at a garage sale. How do some of you guys get this lucky? Jeez. Good memories of the RC10 Graphite. I bought one back when they were brand new in '89 or so, my first 'real' RC car which started my decent down the RC10 rabbit...

The old "I'll make this pile of parts into a truck for next to nothing" scheme original_5174d6fd-acac-4c86-9163-d6bdfaeb3b8b_20210905_103939.jpg But it never goes that way, found some old RPM JRXT conversion arms and well, then it starts (dremel used to make e-clip grooves) 20210930_185215...

My vintage rc habits have been put on hold all summer as I got more involved with the drag racing side of the hobby. I decided to combine the two, and this is the result.

I used the Tamiya masking sheets today and the results were less than spectacular. I did a two color (Tamiya PS16 blue/Duratrax white) and used the masking sheet for the windows. First, the PS16 followed by a light coat of silver to make the paint opaque. Then, remove the boundry mask and apply the ...

Just an observation. To me, your choice of electronics seems out of place for a basher. Unless your gearing is extremely mild, a 13T modified seems hot for bashing in a truck. The esc also seems mild for the application. Even though it is "technically" within its ratings, bashing in a truc...

Looks like all my different buggy boxes come in at :
L-16 5/8
W-9 7/8
H-5 1/2

DS :
L-21 7/8
W-9 7/8
H-5 3/4

T3 and T4
L-16 3/4
W-9 3/4
H-6 1/2

Sorry no original RC10T or T2 box here. I’d believe it to be the same as the later trucks. Only assuming though. Hope this helps.

Hi, my new RC10T2 https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/10/27//21102708532626137617639644.jpg https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/10/27//21102708530226137617639641.jpg https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/10/27//21102708531726137617639643.jpg https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/10/27//2110270853452...

I'm piecing a conversion truck together, with mostly Andy's and JG parts.

This is the body I intend on using.

https://blog.jconcepts.net/2021/02/jconcepts-new-release-1985-ford-ranger-body/

That is really odd. I have a brand new in box CE kit with all black parts, rear worlds arms and worlds bulkhead making it the swan song CE car (obviously built post Worlds car since it was using worlds parts) and it has a viper with no protective film. I don’t recall the AE bodies getting film until...

I can't say I've ever seen overspray film on an original RC10 body.

Unless someone sprayed/painted some liquid mask on the outside at some stage. If it's applied too thin it behaves like you're explaining.

Sabula Tech should have something that will work. https://store.sabulatech.com/