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Not all today, but been slowly chipping away at what will be a Brat/Mud Blaster mashup. It was built from parts like I wanted, not a modified kit.

SFinSF wrote: ↑Sat Aug 31, 2024 10:02 pm

scr8p wrote: ↑Thu Aug 29, 2024 6:04 pm And the inline axles and knuckles.

Could you expand on this? So the stock stuff doesn't work?

The trailing axles from the short arm work fine.

For a "correct" wide arm car, the newer inline axles and carriers are what should be used.

A couple things to add.

Before tinning the battery ends, I scuff them with a flapper wheel on a Dremel.

And be sure to glue both sides of the pack or it might curve. Or it could just be the glue that I used (E6000?)


If needed, Integy still makes the jigs for pack building.

R/C has a very dysfunctional history and the current all corporate involvement makes it self-destructive. It's not just RC, it's everywhere. In the automotive market, a handful of companies own most of the major brands. Holley, Edelbrock, Comp Cams, and Summit own probably 50%+ of the market. After...

If using the GT/DS servo saver with the nose plate in the long wheelbase configuration, you should attach the bellcranks/servo saver to the front holes (you might have to tap them, 8-32). Then use 1/4" (100*) screws to attach the nose plate to the chassis.

What do you do when you have an A stamp chassis and transmission laying around, as well as a 10T nose and suspension?
Rounded it out with some old ECX shocks and cheap electronics from the parts box.

The anti-reverse on fishing reels use the same type bearing.

Out running my vintage Stampede with a new motor (Spektrum 14T 550) and had the trucks first casually in a few years.

I haven't torn it apart but the diff has almost no resistance.

Oh well, time for an upgrade.

Does hiding away playing R/C Pro Am while your wife cleans count as doing something r/c?? Wait, you get to sit on your ass while the wife cleans? How do you get that to fly??? Or do you reap the consequences afterwards as I would :lol: He doesn't get any tude believe it or not, but the house isn't ...

The C stamp is also known as the Championship Edition. :?: The C stamp was used on all of the last versions of original vehicles, CE, Team, Worlds, and 10T. The color was the only diffrence between the CE and the Team/10T chassis. The CE used A, AB, B, and C chassis through its long production.

I use the JConcepts foams on most of mine.

Slide the old one off and the new one on. The new ones are gummy enough that they don't need glue.

By the way, Amain has the Halsey preorder for $10 less than AE, and you can use the monthly $30 off coupon. Brings it down to $349 8) already nabbed mine Dang it! 😂 $30 off coupon? I don't remember ever getting that from Amain. I get an email every few days with the monthly coupons. But Associated ...

R6cowboy wrote: ↑Sat Sep 21, 2024 5:33 pm I am as well. Where does everyone get the materials for making these packs (cells, red/yellow/clear shrink tubing, braid/bars)? MCI has the labels I see from previous posts.

Amazon

Seeing that I just pre-ordered a Hasley RC10, I thought that I should start getting the other part ready. I had a Yokomo super stock laying around that needed some work. So I opened it up and cleaned everything, cut the comm, put a bearing on the inboard side (only had one), and replaced the endbell...

For reference, some modern motors (Tamiya, Yokomo) do have caps. The ones on the Tamiya are on a small circuit board.