RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I don't bother much with closed endbell motors. I'll flush them out and oil the bushings. If that fails, they are trash. I've rebuilt several "tab" style motors. I just use a automatic center punch to lock the tabs back down. https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.htm...

IMHO, parts availability is the most important thing for a basher. There is no question about if it breaks, it will get broken. Being able to quickly (and hopefully cheaply) get it back going will greatly increase your fun factor. And this is where the Traxxas 2WD platform (Bandit, Rustler, Stampede...

This is just me. But any online seller who doesn't accept PayPal is automatically questionable by me.

If I have to choose between my (buyer) protection and theirs, I'll choose mine every time.


Having said that, it's a different story with people that I know or who are established.

Got it painted and most of the decals on. I've got a Hornet Z parts tree coming, which will take care of the lights and driver. After the driver is mounted, I can finish the roof decals. Considering that the Bear Hawk decals weren't designed for this body, I think they look pretty decent. Screenshot...

That receiver is newer than that. It uses the newer "Z" plug, which shares the common wiring pinout.

I want to say that those were mid/late 90's, maybe 2000-ish.

BohemianBabyDev wrote: ↑Mon Nov 14, 2022 12:39 am Hey there, what setup did you run for the front 12mm Hex?
I'm looking to do a similar build.

Looks like RC10B4.2 parts. Unfortunately, many of the parts have gotten hard to find.

I'd probably look at the Custom Works hex conversion kit.

Three way tie for 5th place!

scr8p wrote: ↑Wed Nov 16, 2022 6:40 pm I just use pliers.

Same here.

I use long lineman's pliers. They have plenty of leverage and the jaws are good for forming square edges. They also have good cutting edges.

If you don't need the threaded bushing, use kingpins for a Bolink/RJ Speed Legends car.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/rj-speed-legends-kingpins-w-nuts-2-rjs5377/p657212

I have one of those Parma cars. RJ parts are what keeps it together.

morrisey0 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 16, 2022 8:36 pm You mean o-rings between the chassis plates didn't create rail-like cornering suspension?

O rings and chassis plates? Ya'll talking about high tech cars.

Try controlling this thing with a 12T in it!

The Parma bushings on mine are steel. However, I might have a workable solution for you. All you really need is a 4mm OD locator that fits the 5-40 threaded kingpins, correct? Then you could use two 5-40 nuts, like Bolink and RJ cars. These Tamiya bushings have the correct 4mm OD and the ID is sligh...

Coming late to this party but is offset important for racing class rules, stresses on other car parts or steering geometry or all three? As offset changes the track width, it is definitely important for class racing. For most classes, there will be maximum widths that must be maintained. Wider offs...

Got a delivery from Jeff.

Battery strap for the FXT, towers for the TQ10, extended tower for a Stampede, and chassis braces for both Stampedes.

LoboNYC wrote: ↑Fri Nov 18, 2022 3:03 pm carbon.....ahhhhh...

Not quite. Fiberglass, FRP type material. It does, however have a carbon-ish look.

As anyone who has tried to use Andy's front arms with .71 shocks knows, it just doesn't work. Unlike the newer AE and RPM arms, they don't have the outer holes. While putting together information on different shocks, I noticed that the length difference between .56 and .71 shocks was very close to t...