RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I am no expert, but the "bad" corrosion that indicates the battery is toast is usually powdery and greenish white. It is an acid leak/reaction. You see it often around the terminals on 1:1 car/truck lead acid batteries. You can neutralize it and clean it off with a baking soda and water mi...

Most parts will clean up and should be usable. In theory you could look at re-release parts but a lot of them aren't compatible with the original cars. A repro body is available from Boki Racing https://www.bokiracing.com/product-page/boki-kyosho-ultima-body-wing and the stickers from MCI https://mc...

These diodes were never attached. Does anyone know if they are all essentially the same? I know the big round one is the capacitor, but the rest seemed to be used interchangeably. The picture shows various capacitors, the round can one at the top is an electrolytic while the others are ceramic. All...

Nicads are pretty resilient, I picked up a bunch of packs with some buggies I bought and they had been sitting in a loft for about 12 years. Ran a few charge and discharge cycles through them and they all woke up again. Of course the limited capacity compared to modern batteries means no one is real...

I’d wager if you disassembled the packs and tested individual cells you may be able to reassemble decent packs.

I still have my original 702. I always wanted the 701. This thing has about a million miles on it. I still use it solely for testing and tweaking brushed motors.

Opened and cleaned the servo, it was perfectly clean inside, stock grease was redistributed. Those are the weirdest screws I have ever seen. 1/2 turn to full out. I started to unscrew and they came popping out like crazy. Very weird. Servo.jpg Have the same steering servo in my project. Probably 30...

The sway bar contacts the steering linkage. Dang it. I wanted to use that. The original A arms had an indent in them that allowed a proper fit. This Andy's A arm does not. It doesn't have a spot for the ball link either but I could have resolved that easily enough. I considered attaching it on the ...

Swath wrote: ↑Sat Jun 07, 2025 7:38 pm Is this just a resistor to drain the batteries? I made it, you would think I would know what it was. 35+ years ago seems to make some memories evaporate.

I prefer the glowing resistor method, the 12v automotive light bulbs. I didn't make this one but I have used it.
.

Got to be the worst ever ball diff design, using hard steel plates rather than separate replaceable diff washers. You need part WBD-1 to repair it. Unfortunate that teh rerelease parts don't fit unless you replace the whole gearbox which isn't cheap. I didn't notice back then but the shock tower is ...

.....and if you don't feel like dealing with the light bulb stringers.....10W 30ohm resistors do the trick. 20250218_122323.jpg 20250218_141337.jpg .....the last two packs ran just this past Sunday, on discharge.....beer for reference, when the resistor temperature gets as cool as the can, they're d...

The body in the link you sent is for an Ultima II, not sure how different they are. The Ultima Pro has a mini wing underneath the big wing, that is the only real difference I see. It's the same body, the mini wing is moulded into the bottom of the rear panel of the body. The Ultima II just cuts the...

.....and if you don't feel like dealing with the light bulb stringers.....10W 30ohm resistors do the trick. 20250218_122323.jpg 20250218_141337.jpg .....the last two packs ran just this past Sunday, on discharge.....beer for reference, when the resistor temperature gets as cool as the can, they're ...