RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Data. Use at your own risk. I ran the FR01 chassis test twice. :D Weird that as a bare chassis, the FR01 seemed much more rigid than anything else, but as a complete assembly, it kinda fell right inline with the others. The aluminum pans really do benefit by bracing created by accessories; servo and...

I had to revise this conversion because I was writing it out in order that I was doing it, but half way through, realized I needed to build it backwards, so I wanted a build thread that more accurately shows my method for going about this conversion. It will probably still be a bit choppy, and there...

Please do not take what is in the thread as a complete setup manual for this swap! Read the FTW manual thoroughly! This is not a substitute for the manual! Many things are missing in the posts that you need to read about in the manual. I am mainly pointing out the changes needed to do this swap on a...

Next is the bellcrank and the belt tensioner. For the bellcrank screws, use one of the longer ¾” screws for the right side, and preferably cut the other ¾” screw down a couple of threads or so, or use one of the 5/8” screws. If you use the full ¾”, it will hit the tensioner, but the 5/8” doesn’t get...

Front transmission. The front trans is simply a drive gear driven by the belt pully, and that spins the differential. It is just like the rear without an idler. I did have a bit of endplay on the drive gear this time around, and one shim per side cleaned it up nice. I did run small issues with drive...

I think I had my rear shocks set up per the World's manual, and the inner holes on the TEN 4.1 shock tower are the same width as I had them set up on the FR01, so inner tower holes and outer arm holes should be right, but I may be off there. It is good enough to start with either way. FR011041 BUILD...

Thanks for putting the time into this reference! Just today, I needed to see what was out there, and their specifics, and this helped me out greatly!!

I wanted to run another test just to make sure I wasn’t losing my mind or completely off. I grabbed three sliders, although I really only wanted to test two; an A Stamp, the FR01, and the TQ10. I only grabbed the TQ10 to see if it performed just as poorly as it had prior. The test was relatively sim...

Is a spacer needed under the front gearbox too? The spacer under the tensioner looks like it puts the lower belt run very close to the upper run. There is a decent gap there now, and with a longer belt (if I go that route), it will probably end up even closer because I will probably end up raising ...

I tried to beat up on AE, but couldn't make it happen. Need to devise another tact.

I took the current team of pullers out for a comp today. Lots of bad runs, but lots learned!!! :wink: I think my Sportsman actually won its class, but not 100% as there is a rules question, so waiting on the official results. :? So nice to get back into RC competition though! Make a run, get it back...

Another twin motor rig I ran into just looking around. I get the point of the twin motors (although wouldn't fit into most classes these days), but for the love of dog, the motors need to be the same!!!

I got in a set of Yokomo Super Dog Fighter pink wheels, hoping they would take RIT dye well, and they totally did. I wanted red Yokomo wheels, and now I have them!!

Got the longer belt in, and without adding another idler or something, it is just too long. That extra 3mm makes a lot of difference. FR011041 BUILD 32.jpg So, just going to run the original set up for now, and I think it will work just fine. The lower belt is probably going to ride on the battery s...

Got around to starting to finalize the design and getting to printing the body for a garden tractor puller. Trying to go for a legit ~70s lawn tractor, so the chrome and M/Ts will be going away. Started off with just a scaled up 1:25 file, but ended up making some many adjustments that I just starte...