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My patented servo hole dots can also be used as dust covers for existing holes!

Dangeruss wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2024 12:49 pm
If you put a Stealth transmission into a Grasshopper... would that make it a Team Car???

Wouldn't a Grasshopper be more of a Ninja if it had Stealth?

Showed up today. Started cleaning it up.

The identity plate is in worse shape than I thought.

It’s absolutely a nesc2 as identified by the circuit board. I see a buzz71 fet on the brake position.

Could lose a few grams lol Screenshot_20241207_193213_Gallery.jpg However, this 21.5 car is fast. https://youtu.be/o30ls9LzzOY?feature=shared The run up before the double was wet and slick, so we didn't bother with the double, which is .2 faster. Clicking low 13 sec laps which is really solid for a ...

When I was a kid my father had a roll of HVAC tape in the garage that I would cut pieces off of when I wanted to make parts look like chrome metal on my bodies….

That Cobra is really starting to piss me off....

MarkyDents wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 8:53 pm When I was a kid my father had a roll of HVAC tape in the garage that I would cut pieces off of when I wanted to make parts look like chrome metal on my bodies….

Would? I still do this

I played Pitfall on Atari at a friends house in the '80s. I didn't make it very far.

Kermit is pretty well cleaned up, but now I need to figure out what to do for front wheels. . 1000009352.jpg . The rears here are Bandit 2474 pin drive wheels, but the matching Bandit 2475 are also a pin drive wheel. I would prefer the fronts to be the old fashioned bearing in wheel setup. Any thou...

These are Kyosho Turbo Scorpion (re-re) wheels.

The rears are 12mm hex.

The fronts use an 8mm (or 5/16") OD bearing.

Just printed out the mountings in PA6 CF, drilled to the chassis and assembled it all , really pleased with how it's turned out.

Don't make me do it

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=13059

The tires in your pic are unbranded ProLines.
They came in some Mid-Edinger Kits.

Some armatures I did years ago for some straightaway and racing. Soldered with hightemperature lead (300°C+). Balanced statically via razorblades, dynamical with a structure made from piano wire, bearings and a hand drill. Afterwards epoxied the winding and armed/trued the comm. To maximize the copp...

For comparism: rewound and soldered an old (burned) Tamiya Technigold (same wirediameter (.80)
and also 21 turns) and measured it with my two others: about 1.5K more revolutions under load and
slightly more max. output.

I just converted one myself, here is the way I recommend: remove the fan gearbox, put the diff in the front (its the correct width) source a modern rere stealth (the diff is narrower by just a tad, so you need the box and the diff) (you can use an old stealth also, but not the rere worlds or fanrc s...