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I thought I could move on the Zerda soon, but I did a miscalculation for the belt length, apparently. Ordered new ones, longer. And in the meantime, this mean I need to do something... A friend has fed me with ideas in my reflexion, and he will work with the red parts for the chassis he is going to ...

Time to check the assembly is going to go easy... First front train bar... I straight away noticed that I need to review the bottom part of the clamp either to introduce the nuts by a pause during the print or either reviewing the design to make it easier to insert (it was a bit too hard to my taste...

Berfore dealing with the bodyshells, it is time to deal with the wheels... The simple way to have proper foam tire easy to source is to rely on Kyosho Fantom wheels. The carrier would simply required to be drilled with a 10mm diameter for the center hole, the carrier has the same hex definition. On ...

I printed tires with Recreus Filaflex 60A. https://i.imgur.com/TKD0DP0.jpeg From what I can see on my desk, it could actually work, so I'm eager to try them on asphalt to see if workable this way. Backup plan will be Fantom EP-4WD re-release wheels... I do still have to do something about the holes ...

I did a rear body mount that is targeted to be printed in TPU and will include leds holder, exhaust, and flaps behind the rear wheels... https://i.imgur.com/R2jQmol.jpeg I believe the inspiration of this bodyshell is a Ferrari 333SP, but I decided to not use any wing for some reason (something I'll ...

Rather than calling this an underguard, I should call this a rigidifier. 3mm Kydex sheet, laser cut. I made a projection of the front on the plan, and added 1mm in length at the front extended all holes by 1mm to the front, to take provision for the bent. To bent it : - a piece of wood on the rear/l...

My last post on this topic was last Sunday... Since then, I had quite a time to move some stuff around... First, arches were unmarked on the bodyshell. I did a small tool (and I believe I can improve it for next time)... https://i.imgur.com/8EeO7M9.jpeg The principle is simple : mark, drill, fix, cu...

One part I needed to adjust was the front shock tower. I wanted to keep the chassis geometry for the shocks. But I wanted to center the steering servo head. I could have thought about adding more complexity using the two holes located at the rear end of the front shock tower walls, but I thought the...

After the bodyshell, I decided to extend a bit the chassis project: create a forked version of the project with no dependancy on Kyosho EF-209 Fantom rear shaft, with the target to allow more people to access this chassis and to print it. For that, I decided to use a long M3x70 full threaded screw a...

This morning, I adjusted shocks for this Zerda. Original shocks were 80 and and 90mm, but I find the rear should be shorten by 5mm. I started with some 85mm shocks. Rear are unchanged while front course is shorten by 5mm by insertion of a printed bearing on the piston shaft. https://i.imgur.com/X7fk...

I modified and reprint the Bumper in TPU to take into account the 3mm thickness added to the chassis, as before there was a gap at the front between the Bumper and the gearbox https://i.imgur.com/ZlZ5bWM.jpeg I adapted Rims to put some Kyosho Sand Super Javelin/Optima tires. No doubt, once finished ...

A bit of comparisons while the car is not finished... https://i.imgur.com/TBh6rOQ.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/elGNrEV.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/Pc4RZag.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/D6Bz7LO.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/uXfHl0v.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/fsaYXyF.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/lStz0Q1.jpeg https://i.imgur...

The details for the parts I was working with, are what PETG was not looking as good compared to PLA for. Be that moisture, or whatever you want to attribute that to, I didn't require strength for that project, just the level of detail. PLA was better in that case. Again, it may linked with both exp...

I needed a statement color for the next step of this project, which will turn in my first very own design... Bright orange will go nicely with a black Kydex chassis https://i.imgur.com/NrmLg6V.jpeg The nut in the deep area of the upright is used to control the centering of the screw. The fit is tigh...

Again, it may linked with both experience, calibration and settings. All my recent prints are actually PETG for many reason : it stands much better the heat than PLA, it provide strength closer to nylon than I expectd (I have a 44B chassis running with PETG prints without a single broken parts), an...