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Closer inspection says it's got an rpm rear bulkhead also. And maybe something like a Robinson spur gear with an adapter

I'll add that the aluminum 8-32 screws are tough to come by, the newer ones from associated are really green and terrible. I run all my cars with stainless 8-32 screws instead in the aluminum ones unless I am doing a replica or shelf build.

well....good luck with everything....don't get rid of stuff you don't really want to get rid of, it will all boil down to an extra couple boxes or so.....

The brass ring is intended to touch the outer 5/8" bearing and the outside face of the outdrive gear. It prevents the outdrive from moving outward. You can also use the inner race of an unflanged bearing. You have to install the race, then the inner flanged bearing and then the snap ring. Then ...

A 5 or 6 fet esc I would tell you to put a replacement in. That T1x already has 6 extra in the case . So you should be fine.

You can upgrade to world's parts or a nice rack unit from factory works. It's one of those parts it needs an upgrade once you start breaking the stock parts. You can find lots of used steering parts on ebay too, which is pretty much where we are for the most affordable solutions now that the supply ...

man, that's SOLID! this is one important tech tip!!!

Find yourself a broken one with a sweet case

Is the front bulkhead broken? I forget exactly what it looks like but even the later model parts I think can be cut apart to make the separate sides work for any width traxxas chassis. just not the bandit or later with the extra lip for mounting to a flat chassis. so a bullet, rad, rad2, hawk hawk2 ...

Best fit for that chassis is an andy's body. A Renegade body is wide up front.

for nitro rc10, it's as simple as using a rc10gt chassis, trimming the front 0.400 inch from the end to shorten wheelbase. use a buggy nose clip complete, and swap in rear a-arms and bones/axles, leaving the bulkhead arm mounts, hubs and trans intact. if you use 1/4" axles, use the buggy hubs.

Yes the rib on the hub needs to be notched to allow the steering arm full travel when swapped left to right.

For the longest time, someone was selling thorp replacement axles for rc10 and I think they had a boatload of them on eBay.


I don't see them now. I'd grab these without a second thought.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254685776717

the shocks should be mounted on the front of the tower, and the instructions called for another hole to be drilled inboard to change the shock geometry. the factory 1.32" shock limiter settings should be fine, as well as using the offset spring cup, the 1.32" shock from the kit should have...

Keep going with this. There will be a good demand for something like this for sure. Especially if you can offer the case so that someone could spend less money than what it costs for two aftermarket stealth outdrives to get a modern gear diff.