RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Yes v1 and v2 are essentially the same. The seal end is changed slightly from the first bottom load to top load to bottom load with a cap. The seal is the same just held in place differently. The threaded bodies helped ride height setting tuning.

just use a 10 mm reamer. you could use it in a drill press and it will center just fine. you might have to modify the reamer though, to remove much of the leading chamfer, because the bearing bores are pretty narrow. how wide is the 10mm bearing vs the 3/8" bearing? narrower or wider? that coul...

Yeah you will want to fixture the case to a block of wood or something to hold it in position. You could actually just spin the drill quill by hand once you have it centered to make the cut. Basically you use the drill press to keep things aligned

LONNNNGGGG OVERDUE UPDATE PICS>

Thanks all! Yeah the paint and decal application were quite nerve wracking. Then I was so happy how it turned out I took it to VONATS but never followed up with photos. I'm very satisfied how it turned out. I would like to get the shocks a little closer and have a couple of plans. Hoping to stumble ...

The red black black receiver wire is very probably airtronics. I have a tekin with an airtronics pigtail.

I don't know the pinout by heart but red is power, one black is signal and the other is gnd. Lots of servo pinouts found online between all the brands.

THANKS ALL! This one was a challenging build, and I HAD a lot of the pieces. I can't imagine having to source parts for replicas as a regular occurrence. Glad you all enjoyed it and thanks to all of my competitors, you had some sweet rides I enjoyed checking out!! After all, that's what this contest...

Looks like my intuition was right! :) Now the question is what do they fit? They appear to be for an RC10 going by the backs. I felt the risk in buying them was worth it since even if they don't fit anything I own, the centers are interchangeable. Not that I'll probably ever come across other cente...

Bar codes and bowties look good to me. Another vote for the white wheels.

I would dye the parts black if they aren't really nicely dyed purple. In other words if they are blotchy or ground down where you can see the natural bleeding through. Otherwise it's not that common to see nicely dyed parts and I think would be more suitable to a period restoration.

that is a really nice car, congrats on the win!!!

Jason (Scr8p) modified an RPM case to fit the narrow chassis. If I recall, he got dangerously close to breaking through the case in a few spots. I don't think his pictures were lost or anything so you should be able to dig them up.

You should be able to find the rear arms. Those are more common than the fronts. The unicorn parts are the rpm steering kit. But if you don't mind black, you can fit Losi lxt parts and trim the steering arm down to buggy length. Or just use regular rc10 parts. Otherwise my vote is super clean white ...

Btw, the black motor guard and front yellow springs that fit associated shocks are still available from rpm directly. Phone call and money order.

The carbon chassis with all the battery slots is a team cobra nemesis chassis.

Not sure the make of the cage on the rc10 sprint car, but it looks like a tq10 chassis.