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Race day at RCM

Yeah, the rear arms look great this time. What's the bearing fit like; do they drop in or require a push?

I've tried a few wood filaments , love them , real smell of wood when you print them , if you set the piece right then their layer lines look like wood grain :!: The down side is clogs and stringing , I'd recommend a 0.6mm nozzle and there's nothing you can do about stringing , on the bright side it...

Yeah, the rear arms look great this time. What's the bearing fit like; do they drop in or require a push? It was a tight fit, most likely based on the layer height settings, and the unfinished interior of the hub, the model looked great, the print could be better. Couldn't get that bearing back out...

I was curious about adapter layers and found this video helpful. Skip to 7:20:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnujGcSmAjI

It was a tight fit, most likely based on the layer height settings, and the unfinished interior of the hub, the model looked great, the print could be better. Couldn't get that bearing back out, broke the part trying. Will print another. :D Yeah, I thought that might happen as I have not adjusted b...

https://i.imgur.com/Vf7xQXh.jpg The printed side facing up is always good. https://i.imgur.com/tzBGoRk.jpg https://i.imgur.com/6KM2XlD.jpg The underside, or layer resting on the supports, is always rough. https://i.imgur.com/DhxlA3Z.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3T2q2Ks.jpg I'm learning a bunch on what t...

I Google "Amain coupon" every time I order. They always have them. Or you can scroll to the bottom of their main page. These are current:

The Scorcher body looks great! The color really pops. I reckon you've found some tiny blemishes because you've examined every square millimeter while you were polishing it. I bet if you sticker it and finish the build, after time you won't even notice those tiny imperfections. I'm writing from exper...

Wow, yeah... haven't we all been there, being aware of every tiny blemish. Thought I'd help you out and have a little fun stickering the car for you... the front nose and rear fender decals were hard to get wrapped around the curves. :lol: I also moved your scissors... but I don't remember where I p...

You're going to a lot of effort with this build...if the textured surface wasn't ideal, why not do some wet-sanding to smooth the surfaces pre-paint? Not sure how hard the plastic is, but you could start with 600-grit, then 800 and 1000 grit. That would be a much smoother surface and the plastic sho...

After that interesting ebay situation (well, it's not actually over yet) I found this rc10 on offerup. It was fairly cheap in rc10 terms, and looks to be a mashup of a bunch of different parts. Should make a nice runner that I dont have to care too much about and that's really what I want in an rc10.

A local facility manufactures Jessie brand PLA. They insist that PLA really doesn't need to be dried. Water is a part of the manufacturing process. It is used to make the plastic more ductile and the filament runs through a 20' trough of water during manufacturing from pellet form. ABS and PETG do r...

That is interesting, I will say I only dry my pla when it gets brittle but otherwise really never felt the need much.

Hmm... I'm sensing... you're upset about something. :lol: Good news is I found your scissors. Put them under the Sand Scorcher for you. Bad news is I rubbed through the paint while trying to get decal adhesive off the rear fender... man, you were right... try to fix a mistake and ruin the area in th...