RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

The good thing is purplish parts can always be re-dyed

The only way to remove the piston and rod is at top dead center. Carefully rotate the crank to TDC. 20180218_165915-1024x576.jpg Reach in with a finger and slide the rod out towards you, it may help to grab the top of the piston and bottom of the rod with your thumb and index finger so you can wiggl...

I was thinking exactly the same thing

Well, I finally decided it was time to paint the body for this. I always like the look of vitange and haven't really run the truck much due to the modern look. I found a square body that fit the RC10T4 really well. 6 colors is pretty ambitious for me but I think it came out pretty well... 20180712_2...

Looking really good. Can't wait to see what you come up with in the body department.

klavy69 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 30, 2018 9:13 pm The only option I have in editing your thread is deleting and adding pictures that I can find.

That could get real interesting

This Bud's for you My sticker sheet finally came in and was the perfect size so I couldn't be happier. The real truck is sticker bombed to the hilt and I wanted this to look a bit cleaner. All in all I think it came out great. Also, since I can't find strikers these cut Street Trac tires look the p...

Thanks guys. Like Todd I used to watch this sort of stuff on TV all the time.

My favorite was when TNN motorsport was on non stop Friday nights, everything from swamp bugies, to stadium trucks to monster trucks and more.

Thanks for showing both sides of the car

Gas trucks....*sigh*...... great times.......

Pick up a re-re bulkhead to use and put the original away for when you decide to restore it. 1S lipo = 3.7v 2S lipo = 7.4v 3S lipo = 11.1v Stick to 2S 7.4v lipos as thats the "standard" for 1/10 vehicles, you could run 3S if you wanted to but you don’t need it. The Mah is just the capacity...

I think I used B4.1 rear hubs and ended up using a Yokomo bone paired with the AE axles.

Also check NIXCONCEPTS as Niki has a bunch of modified gear for the RC10.

This isn't an RC10T body but the principle is the same. Most "vintage" Associated bodies that I've used seem to fit the front of the truck fine and while tight on the rear shock tower fit without modification. Here is the rear plate I made to accept this Frewer body. I forget what rear tow...

Hard to see but here's an RC10T3 body on a T4.2. 20190107_214051-1024x576.jpg Stock rear mounts, the shock humps fit exceptionally well. 20190107_214108-1024x576.jpg These are the SC10 front mounts to raise the body to clear the 4.2 tower, it should fit the standard tower just fine I would think. An...

Wow, two things....... 1 - How did I miss this thread to begin with 2 - That thing came out pretty good !!!! If you know a part number or feel like rummaging check out the old Traxxas boxes at HH. There were a few bullet parts and quite a few white Traxxas parts (gearboxes too maybe), what they were...

Midway through the B4/T4 run was when the change happened, so if you look at early B4 literature you'll see what LRP/Reedy had to offer. V brush motors such as the Peak Vantage were the last "Big Thing" to happen in brushed motors although it didnt last long at all. It took a little while ...