mk-Zero wrote: ↑Sat Dec 30, 2017 10:44 am
Very cool build, I love all the detail/documentation!
Did they just machine the 0-deg ones to make the 15's?
And, for those of us (well, me anyway ) that don't know anything about it, when was this car released?
Thanks, glad you like the build!
Yes exactly, they just machined the 0-deg ones for making the 15-deg.
The RC300 was introduced in 1979. Please see Team Associated website, they have a detailed timeline for all of their cars there.
Building the ball joints for the tie rods could be done in a vise. Don´t use pliers as the ball cups could be damaged or scratched. I think you want perfect looking ball joints, when using new parts.
Well actually the vise does work quite good, if all parts are perfect size. If not, how do you remove the balls from the ball cups without damage or scratches?
I have build dozens of ball joints through the years and sometimes the steel balls are slightly oversized, as with one of the RC300 balls. Or surface could be too rough so the ball joint will be too tight or move not really smooth. In this case you have to remove the ball and slightly grind and polish.
This is the ultimate tool for assembling and especially disassembling of ball joints. I don´t remember which company made that tool around 30 years ago but if you find one, go for it. You will like it. I think CRC sold a similar one much later. It´s not only useful for building ball joints for tie rods but also for building front or rear ends.
The picture shows the tool after unscrewing, the left part uses a 4-40 thread where the right parts goes in. This is also the position for disassembling a ball joint.
For assembling the ball joint you have to reverse the left part of the tool. Slide the ball on the thread, then move the tool through the ball cup and turn into the left side of the tool like a screw into a nut. This way the ball will be pressed perfectly into the ball cup.
Just note one important fact, most plastic ball cups may look identical on both sides at first view. But if you have a closer look to the hole where the ball goes in, you will notice one side will have a sharp edge and a slightly chamfered edge at the other side. At this side the hole might be slightly larger also.
The ball should go into the ball cup from the chamfered side.
Front end and servo saver mounted to front chassis plate. Of course front chassis plate was cleaned before also, even when new. This makes a different look.
Tie rods were mounted to servo saver and steering arms. Tie rods were adjusted for a slight toe in for the front wheels. 90 mm overall length for the tie rods do a quite good job here. If you ever plan to run a RC300, you could go from there and adjust to your needs.
All the parts are new, so you could go the easy way and just build the car.
I don´t polish parts for making them shiny as I prefere a natural look, but cleaning all the parts make a big difference for pictures. But again this takes a lot of time.
Yes I think there is maybe no other servo saver providing more options for the servo link. So there should be the right position for any servo.
Something I have been working on for the past few weeks. May very well be the height of my clinical OCD lol. Have been 3D printing and painting everything for a scale garage scene for the Felony. Everything is 3D printed, then painted/detailed....
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Canvassing interest in the creation of a 1/8th scale RC10 project.
Technology has come a long way and thought there could be interest in such an idea. I'm thinking that the smart minds on this forum could design an appropriate larger-sized RC10....
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Fred and Morten have been working on this 1/5 for a few years now. 1:8 would be cool as well.
Well now that the latest project Superbeast is pretty much done, I had told myself I was not going to do another big project. That idea lasted all of about a week. After a bit of thinking I decided to just finally go all out and build the biggest...
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Got the 1/5 out for a bit of a run today to test the new mods I did before the weather gets bad tomorrow.
i got this from my buddy at the swap meet. paid only $150 for it!!
its a 1974 M-4 tank,1/16 scale. dual 380 motors , brass tracks (think they are brass)
has a single stick 3 channle radio , MRC electrics. tank works, but all the bushings need...
So, I'll be the first to admit I am not an Associated type of person. This is my first vintage AE, before this I was big into BMT onroads, owning 30-40 over a short amount of years. :D
Anyhow, I recently picked up what I believe is an RC300 (it...