Un-Tweaking Aluminum Chassis / Nose

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lmw94002
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Un-Tweaking Aluminum Chassis / Nose

Post by lmw94002 » Thu Aug 24, 2017 3:01 pm

Often the back "curl" of an RC10 tub gets the corner tweaked. Also on a DS, I have 4 of 6 nose plates with tweaked corners. Even some RC10 Nose plates can get a bad tweak from a hard it. But especially for my DS nose plates that are so hard to find a replacement for, I'd like to straighten them out a bit.

Anyone have experience straightening them out? I was thinking getting some steel angle iron for over the vice jaws for a smooth surface, heating up the aluminum and then clamping it and letting it cool. Or would cold/clamp pressure be enough? Or clamp it and then heat it? Or am I missing another idea? Thanks.
TweakedNoses.jpg
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RC10CE 6-gear, RC10 Team, 10L, 10LSS, Worlds, B2, B4 TC, FT TC3, Nitro SC8, SC18, RC18LM, FT SC10.2, Worlds-ReRe, B6, B6D
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Lonestar
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Re: Un-Tweaking Aluminum Chassis / Nose

Post by Lonestar » Thu Aug 24, 2017 7:26 pm

nothing a good rubber hammer (not sure how they're called in proper English) can't fix ;)
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jwscab
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Re: Un-Tweaking Aluminum Chassis / Nose

Post by jwscab » Thu Aug 24, 2017 8:58 pm

Yes a plastic hammer works great. Something like hardwood or plastic works as a backer to prevent gouging on the back side. For bent chassis, you can use a combination of vise, wood blocks or even suspending across some boards and applying some foot weight to reverse the damage.

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Re: Un-Tweaking Aluminum Chassis / Nose

Post by Dadio » Sun Feb 11, 2018 11:52 am

I'd avoid using heat on alloy as it could un temper it , aluminium needs to be accurately heated to a temp then cooled slowly to retemper it after heating , it's kind of the opposite to steel and you don't want to end up with it soft as cheese .
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