Where to buy a 1/8 hand reamer?

[Lonestar]

Hi guys

this might look like a stupid Q, but I was looking for some kind of an online place where I could buy a reamer to properly free up the suspension parts of some of my AE and old-school TRX builds. I looked into most of the places I usually shop from around the world, but didn't find what I was looking for. Being a non-native speaker, the very fact that I don't know the exact name of the tool I'm after doesn't help ("Taper pin"? "Reamer"? Something else???), of course, so I'd be grateful if someone could point me to an appropriate place on the internet...

For those that aren't sure what I'm referring to, there are two types of "RC" reamers I know of... those like the hudy (and copycats) which you have to jiggle in the plastic part until it gets you to the proper result, and the kose-like tools, which do it perfectly in just one revolution (but are only available in metric size). I've used both for metric builds, the Kose-likes are better, but they cost so much money I'd rather use the hudy-like ones (the "exceed" ones do the job just fine for 1/4 of the price)

Thanks

Paul

[Eau Rouge]

www.mcmaster.com

Cheap, good quality, and in every different size you will ever need. I chuck mine into a tap handle or an old RC wrench handle and they are good to go. Can't build a car without them, for me. I prefer the twisted flutes instead of the straight, but that's just me.

[Lonestar]

http://www.mcmaster.com

Cheap, good quality, and in every different size you will ever need. I chuck mine into a tap handle or an old RC wrench handle and they are good to go. Can't build a car without them, for me. I prefer the twisted flutes instead of the straight, but that's just me.

Cool thanks - er..... they have litterally dozens of "reamers" ("chucking", "morse chucking", "expansion"...)... any specific link you'd want to point me to?

Thanks a lot

Paul

PS: I haven't visited mcmastercarr's site since 1999 when I was living in the US and I was buying diff balls by the 100's Hopefully they ship overseas!

[Lonestar]

ooooh... look what I found...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Dynamite-3098-Suspension-Arm-Reamer-1-8_W0QQitemZ160358427305QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item25561b6aa9

I swear I didn't see anything like this last time I checked a few weeks ago...

I would still like to hear what product you recommend from mcmaster

Thanks
Paul

[jwscab]

just a simple chucking ream(er) is what you are looking for. you can get 1/8" or slightly oversize(0.126"). I would provide a link but the way mcmasters' website is set up, the links never work for a specific item.

[Eau Rouge]

Yup, I would do a .126" fluted reamer, like product number 8930A121. Other sizes available, too. I carry a 3mm for Losi and Euro cars, and a few others, as well. Those are the 2 most important, though.

[Jay Dub]

Before you order a .125 reamer, you might want to check the actual diameter of the hinge pins you are using. I have been hand fitting parts on my cars for many many years, and have never (except the parts I make my self) found a set of hinge pins that are actually .125. Titanium, Stainless, chromed, or anything else for that matter. Most are in the .123 to range. Measure your hinge pins, and see what they are. You may be better off buying an underside reamer. Say .1235, .124, or .1245.
One trick I learned a few years back has lead me to rarely use a reamer any more, and that is "wiggling" or "rotating" the hinge pin around in the pin hole in the arm until the pin slides or rotates freely. This may sound hack, but it is fast, works really well, and I think provides a better fit. I also think the parts last longer before they develop play because instead of removing material, you are compressing and straightening the material in the hole and making it slightly more dense which equals a harder bearing surface. Regardless, my parts are tight but free, and I haven't used a reamer in this application in years. -Jeff

[Asso_man!]

Hopefully they ship overseas!

They do not unfortunately...

[Lonestar]

Thanks all for the reply.

yep, that's what I was worried of, the world doesn't go beyond the atlantic and pacific oceans for Mister McMaster and Mrs. Carr... oh well.

"chucking /fluted reamer" - got it. thanks gentlemen

Jay Dub - Thanks for the "true diameter" watchout. I first usually try to wiggle the pin in the moving part before I ream them too, at least with the 3mm or 4mm (I run 8th scale too) jap- or euro-spec pins I'm mostly familiar with, as I do agree the reaming is a "destructive" process... but sometimes the plastic is just too soft to react at all and it binds forever (currently experiencing this with my trx-1 built from new black parts) - can you share the exact process you're applying? You say it's "fast"... do you mount the pin (dry) on a drill/dremel, for instance? Thanks


On a sidenote... I have to say I'm often impressed by the overall and technical knowledge of people on this board and how much info they're willing to share... much better than other ones (in other languages mostly, I think Asso_man knows which one I'm referring to )

Thanks all,

Paul

[Asso_man!]

On a sidenote... I have to say I'm often impressed by the overall and technical knowledge of people on this board and how much info they're willing to share... much better than other ones (in other languages mostly, I think Asso_man knows which one I'm referring to

Yep, got it

[Jay Dub]

Well, it is a llittle hard to explain, but easy to show . My team manager showed me a few years back, and it was one of those "Why didn't I think of it?" kind of situations. I propably didn't think of it because (at first) it is counter intuitive, and if someone told me about it, I would have thought they're retarded. But, here goes anyways. First, hold a suspension arm in one hand, and insert the hinge pin through BOTH the hinge pin holes you are looking to test for tightness. Once inserted, or rotate/spin the pin in the holes to see if there is any binding. If there is, then slide out the hinge pin, and insert it into only one side of the arm to see if it is still binding. Do this to both sides to see if the holes are too tight, or just misaligned. Both will cause binding, but can be dealt with in different ways. If the pin is free in each hole independently, the the holes are the proper size, just misaligned. This comprises most of your pin/pin hole binding BTW. Insert the pin in each hole, and push it until it reaches the opposing hole (but don't push it through). Look at the pin, and see which way it is misaligned, more then likely, the pin will slightly favor one side of the opposing hole more than the other. Now take the hinge pin and slide it almost all the way back out. Leave just enough of the hinge pin inserted in the missaligned hole to competely fill it. Now use the hinge pin as a "pry bar" to tweak the plastic in the opposite direction of its current trejectory. You will quickly learn that it doesn't take allot of force, to reform the pin hole. Through trial and error, you will find this not only quick, but easy. Re-insert the pin to check its new alignment, and "re-tweak" as necessary. reapeat the process for the other side, until the pin is free in both holes simultaneously. This process both realigns the holes, as well as opens them up without a reamer. There are still instances where a reamer is necessary, but only rarely. I have found that it is easier to do this with a long hinge pin, or even a short length of music wire (6", that is now a tool in my tool box). BTW, if you are wondering, I have never broken an arm or hurt my self in this process . Hope this helps, and let me know if you don't understand something. -Jeff

[scr8p]

Well, it is a llittle hard to explain, but easy to show . My team manager showed me a few years back, and it was one of those "Why didn't I think of it?" kind of situations. I propably didn't think of it because (at first) it is counter intuitive, and if someone told me about it, I would have thought they're retarded. But, here goes anyways. First, hold a suspension arm in one hand, and insert the hinge pin through BOTH the hinge pin holes you are looking to test for tightness. Once inserted, or rotate/spin the pin in the holes to see if there is any binding. If there is, then slide out the hinge pin, and insert it into only one side of the arm to see if it is still binding. Do this to both sides to see if the holes are too tight, or just misaligned. Both will cause binding, but can be dealt with in different ways. If the pin is free in each hole independently, the the holes are the proper size, just misaligned. This comprises most of your pin/pin hole binding BTW. Insert the pin in each hole, and push it until it reaches the opposing hole (but don't push it through). Look at the pin, and see which way it is misaligned, more then likely, the pin will slightly favor one side of the opposing hole more than the other. Now take the hinge pin and slide it almost all the way back out. Leave just enough of the hinge pin inserted in the missaligned hole to competely fill it. Now use the hinge pin as a "pry bar" to tweak the plastic in the opposite direction of its current trejectory. You will quickly learn that it doesn't take allot of force, to reform the pin hole. Through trial and error, you will find this not only quick, but easy. Re-insert the pin to check its new alignment, and "re-tweak" as necessary. reapeat the process for the other side, until the pin is free in both holes simultaneously. This process both realigns the holes, as well as opens them up without a reamer. There are still instances where a reamer is necessary, but only rarely. I have found that it is easier to do this with a long hinge pin, or even a short length of music wire (6", that is now a tool in my tool box). BTW, if you are wondering, I have never broken an arm or hurt my self in this process . Hope this helps, and let me know if you don't understand something. -Jeff

that's how i've always done it.

[Lonestar]

JEff, got it, thanks. Clear That's how I do it too btw, at least for misalignement... The first time I saw it properly explained was in my Serpent Vector NT manual (I raced 8th scale on-road a few years), such misalignements are due to the plastic parts cooling process when released from the mold... it doesn't fix the "too small holes" issue though, but I agree it takes care of a good part of the overall binding issues still.

Ordered a dynamite reamer too

Thanks guys,
Paul

Sidenote: if anyone wants to setup a european subsidiary of McMC I can tell you they'll make bucketloads of dough

[SteveK]

I always try polishing my hinge pins before worrying about reaming them. I just chuck them in a drill and hold a cloth with some polishing compound against them. Unless there is some other mechanical binding issue, this tends to make the action pretty smooth.

I have also done this with shock shafts in the past. I've heard people advise against it, because it slightly reduces the diameter of the shaft, theoretically you could increase your chance of the seals leaking. If it's in a racer that you maintain regularly, it's probably fine, but for a basher maybe not worth it. It definitely made my shocks feel smoother.