well i finally took my kid to a pretty cool track this past weekend. OMG there were some really hopped up trucks/cars there. i basically realized i really need to get this truck into shape asap.
i recently purchased the RPM tranny. I will install it this weekend. However, i need a good suspension setup and desperately need to wheels and tires for VERY packed hard dirt. PLEASE HELP....any suggestions
For lipo/brushless mod I would start with long wheelbase, f 37.5/#2/blue springs- r 32.5/#1/green springs- front end just above level, rear dogbones level. 25 deg caster blocks seem the most versital right now, a little front toe in, -1 camber front and rear and 3 deg rear toe if possible.
13.5 setup is similar with stiffer springs on both front ( silver ) and rear ( blue ) and 1.5 rear toe. T4 wheels are.the same offset, but you would or maybe already did change to a 3/16 rear cvd, and a good all around tire is. Jconcepts double see, or flip outs followed by the panther switch and switch 2.0. But I would look around at what is being used, or call the place and ask what works-
The GT parts that don't fit are the rear arm mounts, rear bulkhead and towers- all gearbox parts are no good either- other than that all the other suspension etc is good to go-
there are a bunch of AE options to use to " current " your truck-
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including the V2 threaded shocks, the T4 rear alloy large bearing hubs ( you have to drill out the hinge pin and use T4 CVA's ) to RPM arms, etc etc- Also Jconcepts shells like the Illuzion and the High Flow fit well too-
Installed the RPM tranny and took my kid to the track. didnt have the money to upgrade the CVDs yet. Overall, the springs that were on there are way to stiff...I have no idea what kind of springs they are or what spring rate. between the RPM tranny and the brushless motor, 1 of the stock dogbones got torqued causing it to pop out and chew up the a-arm. got a new body and had my kid design the paint scheme...not bad for a 9 year old.
i am finally going to upgrade to the MIP CVD 3/16 this week along with the other parts.
the only other thing is i need to figure out a better to strap down the battery. There isnt much room from the back of the chassis where the battery fits in and the steering servo. Any suggestions? see pics below.
You can ( as I did ) move the battery box up so its just off the steering servo and then
use T4 battery spacer foams to get the battery snug. All you have to do is take the 4/40 screws out and move the box until it is about 1/8" from the servo and make new holes-
Those rear springs are red associated, and are the stiffest that they offer- try green rears- did you change any oil or pistons?
i put losi 50wt in the schocks...but didnt do anything much other than that. i met this guy at the track recently and he has a BUNCH of Associated trucks and he was telling me that for the money i am going to spend on this truck that it would be more worth to just sell it off and get a T4. not sure i am ready to do that since this has sentimental value, and with the other trucks that i have...dont think i need another money pit...haha. with the money that i have spent on upgrades for our slash 4x4 and my revo 3.3 along with all the fixes that i have to do contstantly...not sure another high end truck will help the wallet.
besides...this truck is perferct for my 9 year old. he has a lot to learn about driving...but hes getting it.
i was going to upgrade to the V2 shocks that you had mentioned....
gunna now update CVDs, carriers, get some dirt tires, t4 battery holder, and some dirt tires finally...so not cheap
Can someone (likely temple), please help me ID this? I assume either an early Duratrax or Dragon/Demon (can't remember the name) Nitro Converison. I bought it as I thought I would be getting some white 10GT parts, but upon closer inspection, it is...
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Since the topic is up. Here's my newest Dudgeon next to my complete truck. Missing the trans and trans brace. It'll get one eventually
I'm pretty sure I have the parts you need to finish your truck. PM me if you're interested
See post #43 for current pictures. All other pictures lost…..
Going to base this off of what someone would have built in the beginning of the nitro craze before conversion kits were available. Only sacrifice to original parts will be a used...
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Skinny tires and cut windows. Now it needs a windshield banner to cover up the scratch I made.
First time on this forum, I found it a few days ago. There is some really cool stuff and some great info to be found. I thought I'd post a couple of photos of a truck that I've had since 1996-ish. It's an Rc10T with a nitro conversion. I believe it...
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i had one of these and sold it not knowing what it was :evil:
thanks again dhood for this truck and the new reanno chassis came out perfect. topped it off with a andys rc10t body. DSCN4741.jpg DSCN4742.jpg DSCN4743.jpg DSCN4744.jpg DSCN4745.jpg DSCN4746.jpg DSCN4747.jpg
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Thanx. Kinda figured that but then in the long run why not just run a ribbed tire then is why it didn't add up with the voices in my head... 8)
Alright, I have this idea of converting my 10t to a psuedo 10ds floating around in my head. I think I could cut shock towers and a simple no-kick up nose from carbon, (if anyone has a template or basic measurments of the shock towers for a DS that...
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So RC10 buggy rear arms are a different length? That's the main hold up question in this plan... How wide is and rc10? I was hoping to keep the truck front bulkhead in one piece, that would limit choices on front A-arms as well. According to tower...
Hello everyone I just wanted to reach out and ask if there are any hex wheel Conversions that have been cooked up. I have tried looking through the threads but keep getting distracted looking and reading through other ones that I have not found...
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T4 wheels fit perfectly.
Thanks, that's what I wanted to hear :D
So I was hoping to soak up some knowledge from you guys. I'm about to embark on a short course conversion using my RC10T as a platform. The only problem is I don't have the tools or knowledge to perform the nose plate extension required to meet ROAR...
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Thanks for the info. Just to make sure, 1/8 Thick, 12 X 24 is enough? I'm glad it's not too pricey also.