I took a look at the diffs on this car because I was going to suggest the same thing...but they are the standard yr4/870c variety. The plastic bulkheads are slightly narrower (where the diffs insert) and require the newer style diffs.littleVETTE wrote: have you considered using the stock plastic yr4 bulkheads? they both have the correct front and rear angles needed. those magnesium bulkheads are notorious for snapping after a good hit.
Yokenstein Dogsbreakfast
- highwayracer
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Re: Yokenstein Dogsbreakfast
- LTO_Dave
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Re: Yokenstein Dogsbreakfast
An idea I have for mounting LiPo saddles in my M2 goes like this:
1. Unbolt battery trays from chassis.
2. Remove both aluminum battery brace mounts and braces from trays.
3. Tape or velcro LiPo packs to battery trays in a + pattern (top-to-bottom & side-to-side).
4. Bolt battery trays on chassis.
5. Enjoy LiPo goodness.
I did a quick test fit with my giant TrakPower saddle packs and they'll definitely fit between the mounting nuts on the M2 trays. So I would imagine a smaller hardcase or softcase pack would fit even better. You could still even slide the trays for better weight distribution like they were originally intended.
I'm not sure how this will work for offroad, but I think it will be more than enough holding power for onroad.
1. Unbolt battery trays from chassis.
2. Remove both aluminum battery brace mounts and braces from trays.
3. Tape or velcro LiPo packs to battery trays in a + pattern (top-to-bottom & side-to-side).
4. Bolt battery trays on chassis.
5. Enjoy LiPo goodness.

I did a quick test fit with my giant TrakPower saddle packs and they'll definitely fit between the mounting nuts on the M2 trays. So I would imagine a smaller hardcase or softcase pack would fit even better. You could still even slide the trays for better weight distribution like they were originally intended.

I'm not sure how this will work for offroad, but I think it will be more than enough holding power for onroad.
- littleVETTE
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Re: Yokenstein Dogsbreakfast
there is a slight difference in width between the 2 rear bulkheads that i measured. i measured the magnesium bulkhead, and it's diff bearing seats came in just over 34mm. the yr-4 rear bulkhead, came in just over 33.5mm. also you got to consider what type of center and front bulkheads you are using. so that everything keeps in line. as you stated you got to have the right diffs. that's part of the puzzle to this ordeal.highwayracer wrote:I took a look at the diffs on this car because I was going to suggest the same thing...but they are the standard yr4/870c variety. The plastic bulkheads are slightly narrower (where the diffs insert) and require the newer style diffs.littleVETTE wrote: have you considered using the stock plastic yr4 bulkheads? they both have the correct front and rear angles needed. those magnesium bulkheads are notorious for snapping after a good hit.
- Mr. ED It’s my birthday!
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Re: Yokenstein Dogsbreakfast
.5mm is just the tolerance from moulding nylon parts. I've press fit diffs that came out of magnesium bulks into the plastic ones and driven them without any problem. Actually; as soon as you put the bulkheadcovers on and tighten them up; the plastic bulheads will open up and relieve some stressure from the diff bearings.
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Re: Yokenstein Dogsbreakfast
yup. i think they did that intentionally to those bulkheads to keep the belt from skipping side to side. they keep that "horse shoe" shape even after you've mounted them onto the chassis.
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