help with vintage rc10 racing
- scr8p
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
a taller tower isn't gonna fix your problem, if anything it'll make things worse (in my opinion).
how much shorter is that cf "b4" tower compared to a stock height tower? 3/16"?
how much shorter is that cf "b4" tower compared to a stock height tower? 3/16"?
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
i would say 1/4-3/16 yes.scr8p wrote:a taller tower isn't gonna fix your problem, if anything it'll make things worse (in my opinion).
how much shorter is that cf "b4" tower compared to a stock height tower? 3/16"?
- scr8p
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
3/16" is the difference between a b4 1.18 rear body and a standard rc10 1.32. so if you get the suspension pieces figured out, the tower and shocks are fine.
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
i cant walk out to the moble man cave tonight,(my rc trailer) cause i got to have help walking. but i will try the old tower tomorrow when i get help to walk.
- JK Racing
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
humor me just a bit more, try 2 more tests...I was just outside messing with my car to see if I can replicate it, and I did...using the short tower & 1.32 shocks 
take the shocks off and let the car settle, does the chassis rest on the workbench?
if no
pull the ball end out of the diff, and try it again, does the chassis now rest on the workbench?
B4 & 1.32

My CVDs spaced wrong, chassis wouldnt hit the workbench, it was a change of a thin spacer (didnt measure it).


take the shocks off and let the car settle, does the chassis rest on the workbench?
if no
pull the ball end out of the diff, and try it again, does the chassis now rest on the workbench?
B4 & 1.32

My CVDs spaced wrong, chassis wouldnt hit the workbench, it was a change of a thin spacer (didnt measure it).

--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
i will try it man.JK Racing wrote:humor me just a bit more, try 2 more tests...I was just outside messing with my car to see if I can replicate it, and I did...using the short tower & 1.32 shocks
take the shocks off and let the car settle, does the chassis rest on the workbench?
if no
pull the ball end out of the diff, and try it again, does the chassis now rest on the workbench?
B4 & 1.32
My CVDs spaced wrong, chassis wouldnt hit the workbench, it was a change of a thin spacer (didnt measure it).
- JK Racing
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
scr8p, using B4 rear carriers & B44 rear CVAs, the dogbone plunge is good. I dont have that set up anymore to show it.
I personally have changed my car back to standard arms, truck carriers & MIP CVDs (B2) and TT rear wheels. I do feel it handles better.
I personally have changed my car back to standard arms, truck carriers & MIP CVDs (B2) and TT rear wheels. I do feel it handles better.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
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JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
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- scr8p
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
i tried to make a rc10/b4.1 buggy. i got to wait until do or buy anything else. but i might try the kline arms next and we get this shock deal fixed.JK Racing wrote:scr8p, using B4 rear carriers & B44 rear CVAs, the dogbone plunge is good. I dont have that set up anymore to show it.
I personally have changed my car back to standard arms, truck carriers & MIP CVDs (B2) and TT rear wheels. I do feel it handles better.
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
yes i drilled them out with a mill. i got a friend that works at a mechine shop. r u talking about the hinge pin hole right??scr8p wrote:did you modify the hub like everyone else had too?
- JK Racing
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
Let me see if I can find my old pictures....no, deepening the inner bearing hole & the hinge pin hole, then use B4 CVDs, not the shorter B44 CVAs.
--Joey --
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
i got the b44 cvd in the buggy. i tried a set b4 and they was too long when compressed. i didnt deepen the bearing holeJK Racing wrote:Let me see if I can find my old pictures....no, deepening the inner bearing hole & the hinge pin hole, then use B4 CVDs, not the shorter B44 CVAs.
- JK Racing
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
found it...on top, deep milled B4 CVD, on bottom, B44 CVA
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
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- Charlie don't surf
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
I have pics of the Losi hubs and b4 hubs after milling if needed as well-
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Re: help with vintage rc10 racing
hey jk racing my buggy looks like ur bottom pic but i got 5 washer behind the spacers.
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