RC10 Dual Sport Mid-motor Conversion

[sschering]

Silly question..

could you just use a black GT pan, trans and rear bulkhead then bolt on the DS nose plate, suspension and towers?
Swap the rear arms left to right so the shocks mount on the back.



As far as the motor mount on Ebay it's great if you can't make your own spacers but if you can I think the B4 motor plate and cover is a better way to go.
2 holes line up.. Drill and tap the 3rd.. add 3 7mm spacers and 3/4" 4-40 screws to bolt it together.
I'd also swap the GT top shaft for a B4 (used the 2 gt spacers) and a V2 or VTS slipper.
You guys have me thinking of making one till I looked at the price of the arms.. DS parts are not cheap.

[jwscab]

yep, that would work no problem. i would think you need to use a nitro DS rear shock tower though, instead of the electric version. it's essentially a longer wheelbase electrified N(itro)DS.

[sschering]

I'm looking at the NDS parts list..
It used the GT 7526 rear bulkhead but yeah you would need the 8873 NDS tower.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/NDS/Team/cat_nds.pdf.

[Phin]

I have a brand new RC10 Dual Sport milled chassis but I think that I will just eBay it rather than "swiss cheese" it!

Since I will need a chassis that approximately 40mm longer than stock, I will most likely make my own out of aluminum.

I just wanted to make sure everything was going to fit properly on the stock chassis before I tackled fabricating my own chassis out of aluminum.

If you've got any talent with CAD software you could design a set of front DS arm mounts that have 8 degrees of kick-up built in and have them 3D printed....then you could make your chassis out of a flat piece of carbon fiber.

Silly question..

could you just use a black GT pan, trans and rear bulkhead then bolt on the DS nose plate, suspension and towers?
Swap the rear arms left to right so the shocks mount on the back.

I believe the NDS used a different pan than the GT. Part numbers are different ASC8815(NDS) vs ASC7525(GT). The rear bulkhead is the same, and so are the stock arm mounts, but you might want to find RPM ones with 0 degree of toe in.

[sschering]

I believe the NDS used a different pan than the GT. Part numbers are different ASC8815(NDS) vs ASC7525(GT). The rear bulkhead is the same, and so are the stock arm mounts, but you might want to find RPM ones with 0 degree of toe in.

Good point.. I'd have have to make a custom length carbon pan.. that's easy enough to do.. The DS should have a 10-10.2" wheelbase to match the 200mm touring cars. I couldn't find any specs to confirm that. GT has a wheelbase around 11.3"

Does the DS have any kickup on the front plate?

[Phin]

DS kick is 8 degrees.

[bats]

The DS doesn't have any kick-up on the front plate.

[jwscab]

Yes its something like 8 degrees. You could likely trim a black tub from a gt to fit your needs. You can use the gold pan as reference using the nose plate holes and arm mount hole to see how much needs to be trimmed.

[jwscab]

It might even be easier to use a blue chassis plate rather than the tub.

[DaveM]

Hi Guys,

Phin is right

DS nose plate = 8 degrees,

With a 30 degree caster block = 8 degrees caster.

With a 25 degree caster block = 3 degrees caster.

I have been researching this for a while.

Cheers, Dave.

[bats]

Is it necessary to have kick-up on the nose plate if it is an on-road car?

[sschering]

I was thinking of using the SC10 hex drive steering blocks and 30° SC10 caster blocks.
On a flat plate that should give you 5°. (SC10 is 25° kickup)

[DaveM]

Hi,

On a 30 degree kick up, a 30 degree caster block gives you 30 degrees caster

On a DS 8 degree kick up , here it gets tricky

The difference between a RC10 30 degree kick up and a 8 degree DS kick up =

30 - 8 = 22 degrees difference.


So a 30 degree caster block on a DS 8 degree kick up.

You need to take 22 degrees away from the 30 degree block.

So 30 - 22 = 8 degrees caster.


So a 30 degree caster block on a flat chassis,

the difference between a 30 degree RC10 nose plate and a flat chassis is, 30 degrees.

30 - 30 = 0.

So you have to take 30 degrees away from the 30 degree caster block.

30 - 30 = 0 degrees caster.


I hope this makes sense? All the RC10 Buggy/Truck caster blocks are for a 30 degree kick up.

Cheers Dave.

[Phin]

Is it necessary to have kick-up on the nose plate if it is an on-road car?

DS needed a kick-up because at the time there were no AE caster blocks that could give you positive caster. Nowadays you can get away with B4/SC10 caster blocks since,as sschering said, you can use SC10 30 degree blocks to get +5 caster on a flat chassis. 20 degree blocks flipped around will give you the same.

You could also add a couple of more degrees by shimming the front arm mounts.

[DaveM]

Hi,

Flipped ASC # 6214, 20 degree caster blocks on a flat chassis.

20 - 30 = -10.

-10 flipped = +10 degrees caster.

This is how BBT did the Desperado Sprint Car.

Dave.