Dhawk and racing

General discussion, builds/restorations, etc...

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abailey21
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Dhawk and racing

Post by abailey21 »

Hey guys

So I have an absolute F-ton of RC10's I've been collecting over the past few years. With my job and the travel I haven't had any time to race let alone the couple days a year I get too wrench. Even though a basher worlds car out here in west Africa would be about the highest level of awesome right now.

So I have like 8 projects running, all of them started as rere worlds cars, Most are just updating to RC Carbon shock towers but the one racer I want to finish and actually hit the track with is a rere with most all the JC aftermarket stuff. I have the bellcranks, nose tubes, motor plate. I have a Reedy 17.5, Blackbox 800 all the crap I need to get up and running.


I've thought of doing a Dhawk build and I've read all about the up's and down's of their parts, fit and what not so I know what I'd be getting into but I'm considering the rear mounts for my runner. I know this is a weak spot and I know by installing them I'm setting myself up for broken rear arms and rear hub carriers instead of the rear mounts.

But is anyone racing with these or am I gonna be the only one?

I know I know I wanna post pics of the ever expanding fleet but my cars are 10,000 miles away, yes I'm as sad as you are

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shodog
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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by shodog »

On my Classic I used the Dhawk rear mounts with RPM arms. I found that I needed to grind off a portion of the arm to get it to fit because the mounts are slightly bigger than stock.

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the Dhawk arms and mounts work together perfectly

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abailey21
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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by abailey21 »

right on, thanks man


Still not sure I wanna go that route, I may wait but a full set of Dhawk stuff and build an all green anodized white powder coat tub still. Just not sure

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yellowdatsun
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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by yellowdatsun »

Aluminum is very heavy compared to plastic, and also doesn't bend in a crash. Therefore the car will be heavy, and parts will break. Trust me, I've tried it. I have RPM arms and kept breaking inner hinge blocks, so I went to aluminum, and now it just shears bolts off. You have to leave a few flexible plastic parts on, otherwise when you crash you'll have a bumch of sheared or permanently bent parts. The weight won't help you either. I do use a few aluminum parts, but not a lot, and definitely not in parts like arms, or big parts that weigh a ton.

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abailey21
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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by abailey21 »

Oh I know the normal downsides of using aluminum parts thats why I was only gonna get the rear arm mounts cause that just seems to be the one weak area


Guess I could improve my driving??????? :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :lol:

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yellowdatsun
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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by yellowdatsun »

Rear arm mounts are one of the areas where aluminum is a really good idea. I have them on mine. Go tired of breaking arm mounts. I have the front too.

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by RC10th »

I think the arm mounts will be fine for racing. Make sure you replace the re-re arm mount screws with original ones or others otherwise your setting yourself up for broken screws in the mounts.
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by GoMachV »

Yeah the stock green hardware on the rere are especially delicate. Team KNK makes a nice stainless steel screw set for about $20 that is very nice for runners
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
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yellowdatsun
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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by yellowdatsun »

I ended up putting stainless screws in place of the green screws for the trailing arm hinge mounts.

Once I had the aluminum trailing mounts installed, I sheared a couple green bolts, got fed up with that, and got the stainless bolts. Haven't broken one since.

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by Fred19K »

yellowdatsun wrote:Aluminum is very heavy compared to plastic, and also doesn't bend in a crash. Therefore the car will be heavy, and parts will break. Trust me, I've tried it. I have RPM arms and kept breaking inner hinge blocks, so I went to aluminum, and now it just shears bolts off. You have to leave a few flexible plastic parts on, otherwise when you crash you'll have a bumch of sheared or permanently bent parts. The weight won't help you either. I do use a few aluminum parts, but not a lot, and definitely not in parts like arms, or big parts that weigh a ton.

Very well stated.


My first time building a re-re World's got a bit out of control and turned into a shelf queen because of Dhawk parts :lol: . The fit and machining are amazing and they do look great. The Dhawk gearbox cases are very nice and I probably going to convert my bashers to them at some point. That is about all I would put on something that I know is going to get run time.

Not a racer and I only bash, but what yellowdatsun said is very sound advice for any type of runner.

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by GoMachV »

I hear ya guys, this is how my Dhawk ended up. It's hard to stop!
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It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
Factory Works website

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abailey21
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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by abailey21 »

GoMachV wrote:Yeah the stock green hardware on the rere are especially delicate. Team KNK makes a nice stainless steel screw set for about $20 that is very nice for runners

Yeah I have KNK screws on all my builds...speaking of that I need to pick up a couple more sets

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by durb69 »

Sill working on my Dhawk special. But slow and steady lol.
see next post

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by durb69 »

Sill working on my Dhawk special. But slow and steady lol.

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by nitro4blood »

Super clean stuff right there. Thanks for sharing!

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