GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Jan 21, 2017 12:05 pm
I think for the center link you are OK, but for the ones next to them- the inner steering ball joints- you will want to use standard ball cups. If you dont, they will have clearance issues with the inner camber link ball ends. As far as dimensions go, you could download an old RC10 Champ manual (not the Worlds, because Associated messed up on the rere and changed the rear link positions) and use those dimensions. IIRC they are taken from the center point of the ball, so it is easier with the aftermarket cups
I see what you're saying. Would it better (durability or performance) to use the kit cups for the inner and the RPMs for all of the camber links?
Thanks for the info on the RC10 Champ. I'll do a search....
GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Jan 21, 2017 12:05 pm
also, I dont think your steering bellcrank nut is down all the way on the left side. I bet the washer is off center and holding it up. They are a PITA to get centered
id go tough on the camber links and just use the weaker stock ones for the inner steering ends. Those should be your only clearance problems and although they are really weak, you can still get the better black associated ends if you end up having trouble with them popping off
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
That's what I did. Actually turned out that the RPM ball cups only come with enough for the camber and outer steering only so I couldn't have used it for the inner steering too. Funny how all of this stuff just works out....Moving right along!
I'm doing the shocks and on the step where I am pouring the shock oil. I have a few others but I am (was) using the kit supplied bottle. When I unscrew the cap, I look at what looks like a hole at the tip so I am thinking to myself "great! it's already punctured, ready to pour!". Well..as you all know, it's not. But I just couldn't help myself and squeezed just a bit too much and all of the oil splattered on my face and the table because it separated at the cap...
Needless to say, I ended my night then.
All that was after me on my hands and knees for 10 minutes looking for a darn red o-ring! You know..everyone has lost a red o-ring! I didn't find it and of course AE doesn't include extras. But luckily, good ole Tamiya does! Saved from that....
Noticed that one of the RMP cups seem to be too tight and is causing friction. Any suggestions on how to shave the inside? Just sandpaper? I just don't want to shave too much!
They'll loosen up with use. If it's really bad, you can chuck up a ball stud in a drill, snap the cup on, turn on the drill and wiggle the cup up and down. Do it until it frees up.
scr8p wrote: ↑Sun Jan 22, 2017 8:03 am
They'll loosen up with use. If it's really bad, you can chuck up a ball stud in a drill, snap the cup on, turn on the drill and wiggle the cup up and down. Do it until it frees up.
Thanks! I'll let them be then.
Also, those old instructions are soo cool! Love the photos. Thanks GoMachV!
howaboutme wrote: ↑Sat Jan 21, 2017 9:43 pm
....But I just couldn't help myself and squeezed just a bit too much and all of the oil splattered on my face and the table because it separated at the cap...
Needless to say, I ended my night then.
Hopefully we are at the point where you can look back at it and laugh because.....
And yes, I think we've all been there or somewhere close. I remember trying to bleed my shocks on my first RC10, pulled that shaft down and shot shock oil to my ceiling! Lol
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
Boy I swear my build is borderline comical. Continuing on the shocks, I mistakenly thought 3959 shock collar o ring was 6469 shock cap o ring...Once I found out, I had to switch everything. What an oily mess!
Got it done though.
Why does the kit has so many 6465 shock pistons when you only need 4? I couldn't quite understand the "Racers Tip" about marking the pistons with a #1 for both front and back....What's the purpose for knowing this? I hope your answer doesn't make me realize I made a mistake...
Each piston has a number on it. You wanted to install the #1 pistons might take a quick count on the ones that are left and see what u have. If you pop off the cap and pop the e clip you at least dont have to dump the oil. The number relates to the size holes in the piston
Oh and one thing your not gonna like... the kits have the wrong the shock spacers. There are thin plastic washers in the kit but what is supposed to go on there are 1/8" wide spacers. I used spare orings in mine, because I was out of spacers. I always forget about letting people know about that. It will let the suspension drop too far potentially
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
I never threadlock the pinion but you have to have a good Allen tool. If your using the L shaped tools it's hard to get it right enough without stripping.
If you go back to the CE manual you will see what I mean about the shock spacers. Since you've already built them you can just go along with the build but if you have problems with the bones popping out when running then you'll need to go back and put in the spacers. I used three orings but the proper spacers are #6466
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
Your answer reminded me that I installed the pinion to my HS w/o the L shaped tool that came with it and prior to me picking up some hex wrenches. It all makes sense now!
Here's the latest:
2 questions:
1. How best to orient the ESC? The way it's in the picture or 90, 180, 270 from it? I searched on the web a few times but everyone has different ESC's so it's hard to judge. I looked at joey_zrl's old thread and this is how he did it I believe.
2. Do I attach ESC (using double sided tape supplied) prior to soldering? In other words, solder with all electronics in place?
Will move on to wheels, tires and body while I figure out the soldering...Also need to figure out if I will use antenna since my receiver has none...
Nice progress. I stared at the shock O-rings for quite a while and still got it wrong, luckily I caught my mix-up before the oil went in.
I built mine with the included spacers, and my travel matches Kinwald's setup within 0.5mm, and the bones should stay put, so I'll let it be for now. I picked up extra o-rings to be safe with my last Tower order. Alot of guys use silicone fuel line for spacers, but any nylon washer of a close size should work.
A note on the antenna-less Rx, Futaba indicated they were only good for ~230' IIRC. Just in case you didn't see that
Ok, I preparation for my World's build up, these are the questions that I have come up with:
1. What color are the rear axle/bearing hubs? White or black? The manual shows the car with white, but a pic of the parts in black.
2. What color are the...
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Got the rear wheels today qc, Thank you sir! Just need hoopty's Krylon or some white bell cranks.
HI!... Just picked up this Team Associated RC10 World's car (re/re).
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Looks good but i would switch out the front axles to the 6220 rc10 axles with those wheels since they are a different offset than the kit front wheels.
Here is a RC10B2 project i picked up plus i picked up some new spares and have a few more items on there way to me. Sorry for the bad picture i will get a better one up soon.
Hi all, been slowly getting back into the hobby over the last several years. Used to be into RC boating back in 80's as a kid. Grew up on a lake and had a nitro Kyosho Jet Stream. My cousin had a hornet and his friends had a Frog. Another had a...
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Thanks, I agree simpler paint jobs are less distracting. I don't like overly elaborate paint jobs on racers. I like having something that tells me orientation very well. I just watched the '87 IFMAR championship, that was one loose track. Our track...
Just picked up a World's Car in the recent discounts. Decided to go with a FT blue screw kit for it. I did end up needing a new top shaft as the one that came with the kit was just not smooth. Here are a few pics of the build so far.
Just starting a thread for my 2nd Worlds ReRe build that will be for racing. Going to start with making the parts list. Some of which I've already started acquiring.
Edited 2017/05/31
SSC10 Chassis Kit & Motor Guard
Dyed all white parts Black...
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Rattle can job of my old school racing colors. kinda like the bright color contrast...
BodyTestFit.JPG
Just building a box stock, per the manual World's ReRe. Hope to put it up on the shelf next to my original Worlds. Although the latter has seen significant track time back in the day, still has the dirt in the crevices. lol.
Anyway with the ReRe...
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This design still looks SOOOOOO good even after ca. 30yrs. that it's shocking 8) 8) 8)