Fabbed up a brace for the new B1.5.1+5M tub. I still have to trim it down and give it some shape, but it's attached to the tub and motor plate and the rear feels pretty solid.
The trans and bulkhead were easy. Just made a template, spun it around and drilled the new holes.
the part that sucked was having to add 2 new arm mount holes to the tub. You can't move the mount front and back on the T2 tub like the rc10. Because the hub carrier is set back on the arm in relation to the mount, the mount needs to move back on the tub in a mid motor setup. So it requires a new hole behind the front arm mount hole so the mount can be moved back. I used a stealth trans drill template to do that. But I boogered the one hole up when countersinking it, so I hope it doesn't cause me problem. I may have it welded up so i can redo it.
I do have some concerns about that gold nose plate though.... hey, at least it matches the motor endbell
Let us know how it works at the track
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I actually had the gold plate on it before, when I decided to use these particular front arms. I swapped it out for a black rere nose though. But with the alterations at the front, I would have had to drill and tap a new hole in the nose and didn't want to do it to that one. This gold one is new, but had been cut up a bit when i got it. So I didn't feel bad drilling a hole in it.
RC10th wrote: ↑Mon Mar 05, 2018 7:39 am
I like the "after" servo turnbuckle
Yeah, it's temporary. In trying to push the servo so far forward the bellcrank arm hit it. So I had to move it back, but the battery box was in the way to move it back more. With the ball stud being so low on the bellcrank a straight one hit the servo when turning. So eventually it'll end up with a rere worlds bellcrank with the taller servo arm. Then a straight one can go back on it.
The worlds steering is a good move, from your photo it looks like there is plenty of clearance, have you tried a long ball stud with a thick downstop spacer?
I vote for blue ano to pay tribute to Pavidis's T2