grease & lubricants, what and where?

[Kaare-65]

I know this is a loaded question, but....

Obviously RC10 (6 gear and Stealth) as well as Kyosho Optima, but also have a Hot Bodies D413 and will probably be adding more to the list.

Figured this would be an easy decision.....When I was a kid, I just went to the hobby shop, someone asked what I needed, I said grease, and they handed me the package. Now I am overwhelmed at all the freakin choices.
I am wondering what is the best all around grease and if there are any types of grease that should only be used in certain locations?

I have read that people really like Mobil 1, Plumbers/Dielectric, Hudy Graphite, Moly, Finish Line ceramic wax lube, Tamiya Cera-Grease, Amsoil, Woodland Scenics Moly Grease, TKO Eureka Pro Gear Lube, and Liqui Moly 2003 Mos2 Long-life Grease.
I am not putting links to them.... Just want to get peoples opinions based on what they have used, what works and what is safe to use for all the different materials in an RC car.

[NomadRacer]

For shock o-rings I'm partial to Avid SLOP.

[Kaare-65]

For shock o-rings I'm partial to Avid SLOP.

I have seen a bunch of comments to grease the o ring, It seems like we just used to rub them with some oil and dump the shock oil in....bleed, and done.


This is a quoted from another page and was not sure if I could link to it.
"I have heard of guys using wax base lube because it frees the drivetrain up a lot but I do not recommend this for the fact is is designed to attract dirt and then fall off. Granted there's not going to be a lot of dirt in the case, dust does penetrate. Why take that chance for so little gain? Jmo"

If you look at the description on Amazon you get these bullet points.
Greatly reduces drivetrain and bearing friction
A wax-style lube that goes on wet, but dries to a wax so it won't attract or absorb dirt
Smooth and quiet and extremely durable
Perfect for dry climates and dirty conditions
Builds ceramic coating on frictional surface
To deliver maximum cleanliness and performance in dry, dusty, off-road condition

And here is a link to the product page.
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/chain-lubricants/ceramic-wax-lube

[NomadRacer]

I recall a graphite/moly type lube that was brushed on wet and dried a long time ago. I don't remember the brand but it was in the RC industry. I pretty much stick to RC intended lubes and grease (Associated/MIP/Avid).

I do treat my metal parts )CVD/CVA's) with EEZOX. It's a synthetic solvent/lubricant/rust preventative. No oily film-dry to the touch. It's marketed as a premium gun care product.

[RC10th]

Associated green slime, black grease and stealth diff lube are all you need. Unless your in the top 5% you won't notice any difference.

Something I've been put onto lately but still have yet to try is lano-sheild which contains lanolin from sheep wool. Apparantly it is an excellent corrosion inhibitor and wont wash off. The guy who put me on to it runs his RC car on the beach and surprisigly it shows no signs of rust etc.

[Lonestar]

Associated green slime, black grease and stealth diff lube are all you need.

This. will cover most needs. Green slime is cheaper than Avid's slop or muchmore's equivalent. I believe these are just moly grease, btw...

Green slime shields the oring from the exterior... not only does it provide lubrication, which your silicon oil can't do (because it isn't a lube...), so the shock is marginally smoother , but it also prevents (to some extent) the oring to swell and soften as quick by allowing it to NOT swallow the oil.

Moly grease on the conical gears is never a bad idea.

Best silicon ball diff fluid i've ever come across is Kyosho's. Really widens the no_slip+smooth sweet spot, and last longer between rebuilds that AE Stealth lube (that I still use for shelfers because it's less expensive).

Tamiya AWG is great when there is a LOT of friction. Works best on outdrives/drive pins. The issue is, it's REALLY sticky so cleaning must happen more often.


about all these products - it's mostly the lasting time of the effect that matters and/or the anti-wear effects, whether you are in the 5% or not. Performance gains are marginal at best, if any at all. Even for the 5%