Cleaning 870c/YZ10 magnesium parts

[Bormac]

Hello fellow Yokomo gurus.
I want to bring back the stock bulkheads and hubs etc.. for these early dogfighters to like new. Im seeking opinions on wether sand or particle blasting is recommended to strip the ugly ageing and get these surfaces back to new? My only concern is that the process might in some way degridate these parts.

Has anyone got experience with cleaning these items back to like new?

Thank you- Jason

[jwscab]

the best method I have used(and will use in the future) is light glass beading. I also think the magnesium should be waxed or oiled afterwards to prevent oxidation. that I haven't really tried yet, but plan to. if you use glass beads and don't focus down tight with lots of air pressure, you won't remove any of the edges of the material.

[rctodd1624]

I have a bunch of motor mounts I would like to have done is someone could do a professional job I would send out and pay to have it done. PM me if so.

[klavy69]

I've got a cabinet setup with glass bead. Drop me a line if you need this done. I can slip them in when I'm doing some of my other stuff...

Todd

[rctodd1624]

pm sent

[cas22]

Hi All, found another option to share
Just had the same original parts cleaned with Soda blasting, I guess with the rerelease i could just buy new but was keen to keep some originality.
Came out looking almost polished, really happy with the result. tried lacquer clear coat but looked too shiny, need a matt finish.
This old girl still had the original rubber gaskets, not sure what the top plate was, but i think a trinity item?? any clarification be appreciated.
Obviously, it didn't have the center stiffening spine ever installed, so does that mean YZ-10 rather than 870C?
Anyway, another option to share.
Keep well

[cas22]

Just an update that may help some others.
Once i got the bulkheads soda blasted, i was told they would discolor again within a few months.
I looked into alternatives, but Tamiya Lacquer Paint worked really well.

Cleaned them up with isopropyl alcohol, and then with Tamiya Thinners (LP-10) to ensure they were really clean.
Then put 3 layers of Tamiya Flat clear Lacquer (LP-23)
Came out really well. I was going to airbrush them, but a 1/4" brush was fine, ended up 3 thin coats.
Then gently retaped the 2mm threads again.

Only just realized the rere bulkhead caps were different from the original. Mine were so yellow i was stoked that i could finally replace them.
Then measured and ????

Mine had an old school Jammin Jay top brace, so the body post holes didn't line up, (cut and buffed) and the covers were a bit skewed.
The internal ribbing for the gear diffs obstructs the ball differentials.
Dremel sorted that out, and they fit now, the overhang at the front is not ideal, but better than my hair line fractured nicotine yellow 30 year old plastics I had.

Replaced al the bearings, diff balls, front uprights, wing wire mounts etc, And sourced new belts as again i had assumed the rere was the same.
I did order new slipper set up purely because i wanted a spare spur gear, and mine had the one way in it