Howdy,
Daughter is 4 now and I want to get the Brat going for her. It's the re-re. Still have the unpainted lexan body. Might go hot pink. Anyway......IIRC, when I stashed it away, there were some missing steering parts/linkages. Namely the servo saver and the "tie rods"
Does anyone have any steering setup ideas they would be willing to share? Like ball cup and tie-rod length/sizes? Aftermarket? Servo saver options/opinions?
Truth be told, I haven't dug it out yet to get a good look at what I actually need I know these Tamiya rigs are plastic fantastic and the spare parts show is a bit of a hassle. I guess I could just go back to the bone-stock setup.
I guess I have just externalized the ramblings of a middle-aged, non-thread-mining half-stepper with this low-grade "panic post"
Any ideas?
Thanks
Brat Steering
- TRX-1-3
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- jkelm24
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Re: Brat Steering
They're direct steering, so just need a large after market servo saver (Kimbrough, etc), links and ball cups. Standard Tamiya ball studs are 5mm. You'll need to measure the rod lengths. But any 4-40 should do (generic cut-to-length, pre-cut titanium, etc).
- TRX-1-3
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Re: Brat Steering
Oh wait, I need to clarify...
Tamiya uses metric hardware. If you're using the existing previously installed kit ball cups that have already been threaded to Tamiya rods, then you'll want to use metric rods, not 4-40.
If you're using brand new cups, then you can use either 3mm (metric) or 4-40 (standard / imperial) rods. The rod diameter is the virtually the same for 3mm and 4-40, but the thread pitch is different. This doesn't matter if your threading into fresh nylon or plastic, allowing you to use either. But if threading into used ball cups, you'll want to keep the same thread pitch (in this case metric).
For example... I'm building a new Top Force rere. I picked up some Lunsford retro turnbuckles (because they're awesome and they scream 1992). But, they're only available in imperial 4-40. This doesn't matter in my case because I'm threading into fresh plastic ball cups.
Here's the manual for the Brat.
https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/subaru_brat.pdf
Looks like the steering rods are 53mm and 75mm length. You'll have some wiggle room in length depending on the ball cups you go with.
https://lunsfordracing.com/collections/turnbuckles
Hope I'm not steering you in the wrong direction. Might want to measure your ball connectors before ordering anything. Or just buy all new connectors, cups, and rods together, along with the large servo saver.
Rock 'n Roll...
Share some pictures when she's up and running!
Tamiya uses metric hardware. If you're using the existing previously installed kit ball cups that have already been threaded to Tamiya rods, then you'll want to use metric rods, not 4-40.
If you're using brand new cups, then you can use either 3mm (metric) or 4-40 (standard / imperial) rods. The rod diameter is the virtually the same for 3mm and 4-40, but the thread pitch is different. This doesn't matter if your threading into fresh nylon or plastic, allowing you to use either. But if threading into used ball cups, you'll want to keep the same thread pitch (in this case metric).
For example... I'm building a new Top Force rere. I picked up some Lunsford retro turnbuckles (because they're awesome and they scream 1992). But, they're only available in imperial 4-40. This doesn't matter in my case because I'm threading into fresh plastic ball cups.
Here's the manual for the Brat.
https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/subaru_brat.pdf
Looks like the steering rods are 53mm and 75mm length. You'll have some wiggle room in length depending on the ball cups you go with.
https://lunsfordracing.com/collections/turnbuckles
Hope I'm not steering you in the wrong direction. Might want to measure your ball connectors before ordering anything. Or just buy all new connectors, cups, and rods together, along with the large servo saver.
Rock 'n Roll...
Share some pictures when she's up and running!
- tamiya
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Re: Brat Steering
ORV steering knuckles have the ball already installed... wouldn't try changing to larger ball, ain't much meat there to work with.
How many servos are you installing? Steering servo is offset due to original designed 2nd MSC servo next to it; if you don't need that then it makes sense to make your own holes to centre the steering servo right in the middle. Then you can DIY equal length link to both knuckles.
How many servos are you installing? Steering servo is offset due to original designed 2nd MSC servo next to it; if you don't need that then it makes sense to make your own holes to centre the steering servo right in the middle. Then you can DIY equal length link to both knuckles.
- Pepito
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Re: Brat Steering
I got a bunch of parts laying around if you are still working on this.TRX-1-3 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 09, 2020 7:03 pm Howdy,
Daughter is 4 now and I want to get the Brat going for her. It's the re-re. Still have the unpainted lexan body. Might go hot pink. Anyway......IIRC, when I stashed it away, there were some missing steering parts/linkages. Namely the servo saver and the "tie rods"
Does anyone have any steering setup ideas they would be willing to share? Like ball cup and tie-rod length/sizes? Aftermarket? Servo saver options/opinions?
Truth be told, I haven't dug it out yet to get a good look at what I actually need I know these Tamiya rigs are plastic fantastic and the spare parts show is a bit of a hassle. I guess I could just go back to the bone-stock setup.
I guess I have just externalized the ramblings of a middle-aged, non-thread-mining half-stepper with this low-grade "panic post"
Any ideas?
Thanks
I am sure I can find what you are looking for amongst my junk boxes.
If you need anything, let me know!
Living life a 1/4 mile at a time.
- TRX-1-3
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Re: Brat Steering
I've got a Blackfoot carcass out in the garage. I stumbled upon it while looking for something else. I might just see if the steering rods (ends) fit the ballstuds on the Brat knuckles.
Hope you're doin' something fun.
- Pepito
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Re: Brat Steering
Like I said before, I will offer it up again, just let me know what parts you need. I am sure I have them in the scrap bins.
Best way is to D/L the Manual and circle the part on the page and send it to me.
It'll just cost you postage, if that.
Living life a 1/4 mile at a time.
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