If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
A little. I recently have been looking at it again. Front shocks are hard to fit. I was looking at a few things...Scorpion rear shocks, CRP shocks like they used for the front of the frog.
I think if I make longer front towers and a long shock end I can run short golds on the front and still clear the drive axles.
Built the Tamiya SRB diffs and installed them. I'll need to figure steering pretty soon as well.
BTW Corally sedan CVDSfit almost perfectly, not that it's period correct. If I could find a dogbone of the right size, I could cut it and use the original universal ends to make axles. Hmmm
After like 4 months, I got back to this thing. Front shock fitment was at a stand still, but I decided to use Optima re re shocks. I mocked up a bunch of stuff, but the best way to get the shock in and keep it from hitting everything on the front end was to lop off the SRB mounts and make a fiberglass mount that would lean the shocks in a little. I drilled and tapped the bottom of the uprights for the front end to attach the molunts. This is going to make the car look a little different, but that's cool. I just have to copy the mount for the right side and then get onto the steering. I may actually finish this year..lol. Really, I want to have it ready for this summer. It should be cool out on the dirt
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
After last night I was pretty motivated to get the front end set up. I kinda cribbed off of 1300GT's steering set up, but used some MIP Rc10 steering arms. I wanted to set the servo off to the side so I could move the battery around or use a long pack. I don't know where the weight needs to be. I can also flip the steering arms around and put the servo in the middle if the battery is ok pushed back, though the servo mount holes would need to be drilled. Bump steer is kinda crazy, but I have no idea if it is shimmed right.
Now I can start playing footsie with the rear dogbones so they stay in the car and don't bind up...
I got a bunch of driveshaft stuff in the mail. Xtraspeed makes Scorpion universals, among other stuff, so I'm going to start seeing what I can do with the parts. I think the rear shocks need about 4-5mm in limiters to keep the bones from flying out. If I can get it together, I might be able to make a couple test runs and then take it apart for final assembly and paint the body.
I have a Sabulatech Bolink SRB body. It's pretty good, but since the front gearbox is standup, I tried to make a bump out in the body with a heat gun to clear the chain and pulley. It didn't come out great. I was thinking though, the drift car guys have all sorts of crazy bolt on detail parts for bodies, so maybe I can find something to cover the pulley.
AscotConversion wrote: ↑Thu May 04, 2023 11:56 pm
I got a bunch of driveshaft stuff in the mail. Xtraspeed makes Scorpion universals, among other stuff, so I'm going to start seeing what I can do with the parts. I think the rear shocks need about 4-5mm in limiters to keep the bones from flying out. If I can get it together, I might be able to make a couple test runs and then take it apart for final assembly and paint the body.
I have a Sabulatech Bolink SRB body. It's pretty good, but since the front gearbox is standup, I tried to make a bump out in the body with a heat gun to clear the chain and pulley. It didn't come out great. I was thinking though, the drift car guys have all sorts of crazy bolt on detail parts for bodies, so maybe I can find something to cover the pulley.
Been there where your at...people don't realize u might have to buy 5 sets of dogbones for just the rear to get it right...very tedious and expensive...but worth it in the end when it all comes together...keep it up!
AscotConversion wrote: ↑Thu May 04, 2023 11:56 pm
I got a bunch of driveshaft stuff in the mail. Xtraspeed makes Scorpion universals, among other stuff, so I'm going to start seeing what I can do with the parts. I think the rear shocks need about 4-5mm in limiters to keep the bones from flying out. If I can get it together, I might be able to make a couple test runs and then take it apart for final assembly and paint the body.
I have a Sabulatech Bolink SRB body. It's pretty good, but since the front gearbox is standup, I tried to make a bump out in the body with a heat gun to clear the chain and pulley. It didn't come out great. I was thinking though, the drift car guys have all sorts of crazy bolt on detail parts for bodies, so maybe I can find something to cover the pulley.
Been there where your at...people don't realize u might have to buy 5 sets of dogbones for just the rear to get it right...very tedious and expensive...but worth it in the end when it all comes together...keep it up!
It's frustrating how few sellers give measurements for dog bones , or they give you one measurement but don't tell you if it's total length or pin centre to pin centre.
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
AscotConversion wrote: ↑Thu May 04, 2023 11:56 pm
I got a bunch of driveshaft stuff in the mail. Xtraspeed makes Scorpion universals, among other stuff, so I'm going to start seeing what I can do with the parts. I think the rear shocks need about 4-5mm in limiters to keep the bones from flying out. If I can get it together, I might be able to make a couple test runs and then take it apart for final assembly and paint the body.
I have a Sabulatech Bolink SRB body. It's pretty good, but since the front gearbox is standup, I tried to make a bump out in the body with a heat gun to clear the chain and pulley. It didn't come out great. I was thinking though, the drift car guys have all sorts of crazy bolt on detail parts for bodies, so maybe I can find something to cover the pulley.
Been there where your at...people don't realize u might have to buy 5 sets of dogbones for just the rear to get it right...very tedious and expensive...but worth it in the end when it all comes together...keep it up!
It's frustrating how few sellers give measurements for dog bones , or they give you one measurement but don't tell you if it's total length or pin centre to pin centre.
Exactly!...and if it 1/2 millimeter off sometimes it binds
Well, Scorpion universals are not the best thing for the front....and I cut too much off the outputs on the front diff for the CVDs I had fit up before, so I have to build another diff. Luckily, I had an extra for parts. Also, the Scorpion universals are 6mm out to the hex pin hole, so it messes up using a normal hex. I ordered Kyosho TF-2 universals off ebay, hoping the pin fits the drive cup and the length works. Sedan length drive shafts seem to be pretty good for the front.
I’ve been wanting to build an RC10 trailing arm conversion runner for years as I’ve never actually driven one. I came close once with an A&L build, but when it was done, I just couldn’t bring myself to run an actual vintage chassis. When I saw that...
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:D
I thought I'd post up these pics also, just in case someone finds them helpful. I tried all sorts of rear mounts for the Andy's Renegade body. The best solution I could come up with to deal with the angles on the rear of that body was a single...
Started with the basic idea of SRB, pretty much keep a tiny bit of SRB and some after market structural geometry. Plenty of custom made, CNC & hand made parts too.
Together also show my out of whack Mugen Bulldog lol ;)
hi guy's i was wondering what difference does the trailing arm makes on the track.ive always run cars whit a-arm and i wonder if it does make more or less
traction.i know that it must have less side bite because of the lack of camber gain but how...
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thanks alot. 8) i should have used the search button :oops: :oops: sorry about that.realy interesting thread thought.
Work in progress.
Chassis from Jeff ´Factory Works`
Scorpion rear arms and wheels
Original 6 gear.
I´m not sure about the nosepiece but it was old and black to begin with :-)
Rest is RC10 Classic parts, with a little help from an Ultima RB6
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Many Thanks for the kind words.
ummmm, Apple Pie... Now I´m lusting for cake :mrgreen:
And Yes, they´re Scorpion wheels.
Why have I bought this :? I think it's because you guys kept snapping them up so I figure they must be a decent deal. I have no donor parts left to build it so I'm going to have to start all over again, this one could be a real long drawn out...
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i wish i knew you had rc-10 towers when i ordered the lethal weapon parts from you a week ago i would have got a set. you didnt happen to send out the missing tranny brace yet, if so wait and i will send money for towers too.
I have been wanting to start a project to race on a large MX style track predominantly used by 1/8 cars and trucks. I love the way a trailing arm car runs and handles. The track is loose and rough with huge jumps. It will be a 10th scale buggy built...
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What I found with my trailingarm racer was that it's difficult to get enough suspension travel without running into extreme angle or angle changes.
I Think the solution would be to use longer arms but don't have the tools to make something descent.
Through my eBay fun, I have ended up with a spare set of trailing arms set up (Andy's/S&K) and have this question to the guys who have actually run trailing arms....
What does it do to the handling of the car? Too much rear traction, making the car...
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I think you will find that most molded graphite tubs will lack the strength for a suspension mount of that variety. Specifically, I think you will have to grind off the edge of the tub to get the suspension block to fit, and I don't think the...