SG Coyote improvements

[1300GT]

5mm aluminium centre drive shaft finished. Very lightweight.

I can confirm that it moves just enough to be removed from the chassis as described in a previous post. No more time wasting spur gear changes.

[1300GT]

Finally got the motor mount made. I still have to do a bit more machining to lighten it. I'm really happy with it.

Fitted. Fits and functions perfectly.

[BattleTrak]

Looks great like everything else you’ve done! Almost has the classic barn shape.. I keep saying it..but if you’re ever inclined to whittle up some extras of your parts, I would be interested in them.

[1300GT]

Thanks Brad. Making a few extra parts is something that I would like to tackle in the future.

Does everybody like Swiss Cheese?

Too bad if you don't.
All done. It weighs in at a massive 29.4 grams compared to the plastic motor mount which comes in at 9.3 grams.
Not too shabby.

[1300GT]

Coyotes have no front kick up, anti-squat or rear toe in from the factory. Washers can be added between the rear suspension pivot balls and bulkheads to add some kick up and anti-squat. That's how I built mine when I first assembled it. The lack of toe in on the rear was something that needed to be addressed. One way is to use front arms and steering knuckles on the rear which is the simplest way. I wanted to retain the rear arms but add toe in. Here's the solution.

A new aluminium rear bulkhead was made which drops the rear pivot ball by 1mm adding some anti-squat. More washers can be used for fine tuning.

Here you can see the pivot ball screw holes have been moved outwards by 1.5mm on each side when compared to the stock item. This adds about one degree of toe in on the rear.

Rear toe in shot.

I was thinking about making a new front bulkhead that will lift the front most pivot balls by 1mm adding even more front kick up.
Getting there slowly.

[dinglem]

These parts look great!

[Dadio]

Love the rear bulkhead great idea !

[RC10th]

Hey Chris, why choose aluminum over a lighter material like delrin or nylon?

[1300GT]

These parts look great!

Thanks Martin! I reckon The parts on yours look pretty good too.

Love the rear bulkhead great idea !

Thanks Gav! The idea has been floating around my brain for a few years now. It's good to be finally able to make it.

Hey Chris, why choose aluminum over a lighter material like delrin or nylon?

Good question RJ. Simply put, I already had some left over from the motor mount. The bulkheads like the motor mount are 6mm thick. I wasn't able to weigh it because the batteries in my scales went flat the other day. It isn't a lot heavier than stock. I milled a fair chunk of it out.

[1300GT]

A used bulkhead has been modified by machining 1.5mm off the areas where the front pivot ball of the front arms attach. The mounting hole was then extended up into the bulkhead to compensate for the loss of material that the screw needs to bite into. I was going to machine an alloy one up for the front like the rear one but I thought I'd give this a try first.

A small amount of aluminium was also removed from each chassis rail to allow the front arms to reach full bump.

There's a 1mm washer under the rear of the front arm which combined with raising the front of the arm gives about five degrees kick up. Not too bad considering there was none.

This is a photo of the rear arm. With the new rear bulkhead installed there's about one degree of anti-squat.

[RC10th]

I love creative engineering like that, improving an existing design. All the better when people are extremely puzzled as to why your car is so fast and can't figure it out

Loving the build more and more

[Retro rc]

Just a thought, have you considered making a 2 piece engine mount hat splits on the spur shaft bearing? Sort of like a 1/8 split centre diff mount.

That way you could leave the motor attached and just move it out of the way to access the spur setup

[1300GT]

I love creative engineering like that, improving an existing design. All the better when people are extremely puzzled as to why your car is so fast and can't figure it out

Loving the build more and more

Thanks RJ!

Just a thought, have you considered making a 2 piece engine mount hat splits on the spur shaft bearing? Sort of like a 1/8 split centre diff mount.

That way you could leave the motor attached and just move it out of the way to access the spur setup

No, I hadn't really thought of doing that. I was considering a centre ball diff , but the chassis is open and it wouldn't take long for the diff to seize.

[1300GT]

Here's a link to page two of Bormac's Coyote thread. The article about John Schweitzer's modified Coyote is on this page.
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18629&start=15
John used fibreglass to reinforce the suspension arms as they are incredibly flexible. Here's what I've done.
These plates were cut from 1.5mm carbon sheet. They sandwich the rear suspension arms and allow a proper shock mounting point to be attached as well as reduce flex.

Here they are fitted. An M3 screw passes through the bottom plate, suspension arm, top plate, the front of the aluminium angle shock mount and is tightened with an M3 nut. The rear of the shock mount is secured by an M2 screw to the top plate. Six zip ties are used to pull the plates together around the arm. No modifications are needed to the arms. If an arm breaks the plates can be transferred to a new one without any hassle. I still have to make the front arm plates. Flex is now greatly reduced.

Front shock tower made from 1/8" G10.

Rear shock tower made from the same material. Rear arms also mounted.

I'm going to use Kyosho Tomahawk front shocks ( which are a major improvement over the stock items) all round in a laydown position much like a stock Coyote. Later on, I can make new shock towers and lower mounts that allow the use of more upright shocks if needed.

[Dadio]

This car is coming on nicely , also thanks for the link to Bormac's thread .