Associated's '89 Stealth car (RC10GX)

[sandkil]

Body trim

[LoboNYC]

Man, this buggy is so clean and on-point!

Im not a buggy fan but every time i see one of your buggy builds it makes me want one.

Great Job Erik!!!

[sandkil]

Man, this buggy is so clean and on-point!

Im not a buggy fan but every time i see one of your buggy builds it makes me want one.

Great Job Erik!!!

Thank so much, Alex!
You know you need a buggy

Small updates on the build.
Aluminum M3x6 Phillips screws for the inner pivot balls on the front end (if anyone needs a screw or two I got like 48 pcs over).
I also mounted a used straighten out motor guard at the other end.

[bluewormx]

Looking really good sandkil,
I'm beginning to suspect you might be making your own rear chassis brace!

[sandkil]

Looking really good sandkil,
I'm beginning to suspect you might be making your own rear chassis brace!

Thank you bluewormx,
No no I'm wainting to see how the GP3D motor plate and guard will turn out. I think they are being anodized as we speek.
The biggest visual different to original are the sharper bends on the motor plate towards the rear.

[hugger19]

Can you show how the back of the body is cut out for the rear mount thanks

[sandkil]

Can you show how the back of the body is cut out for the rear mount thanks

Hi Hugger19

Masami cut his body just aft of the rear shock tower as he didn't use the rear budy post. He used velcro on the sides.
The pictures of Masami Hirosakas car in the Associated book don't do justice as the car has been altered after Masami raced it.

Bluewormx had som good points in the https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5500&start=225 thread

Hi, I had seen this photo and have been looking for it. The slipper looks somewhat like the MIP SL-100. Baring in mind that not much is really known about the prototype stealth gearbox.

Some magazine reviews have said the following:
1:2 ratio
bellview washers instead of diff spring

I think until verified all race reports and reviews need to be judging as "probably right" but may have errors.

The only other info on the prototype stealth transmission, where some photos posted here By mark Pavidis or maybe Ruffy.

The 89 stealth car was probably rebuilt by associated. Most photos from the race show various differences from those captured by Steve Hustings photo book.:

Motor mount cut diagonally
Yokomo rc10 gear cover with bung removed.
transmission brace cut removing 6 gear holes.
No rear body mount (why would he want one!)
yokomo shock clips
Green label Reedy motor (not the earlier yellow label as seen in book)

Probably more stuff that is too hard to see in the long range photos of the time.

[hugger19]

Thanks!

[LurkingCAT]

Thank you for posting your build. Very good both technically and aesthetically!
Just got a GX delivery in my own mailbox, and this thread is an inspiration and setting a standard for my own build
However, I want to make mine a race car, so will opt for a slightly different route regarding setup, and the bar will be lowered on the Masami details
Still have many parts to source...

Greetings from Norway!

[sandkil]

Okay.. this shows what color scheme I’m going for..
NOTE! Do not mix Faskolor and Tamiya’s PS rattle can paint. Faskolor do not like it at all!
I got my work cut out trying to fix the body.

[sandkil]

Here’s something I noticed when cutting the styrene battery hold down. As Masami removed the bottom of the battery cups he probably had to grind down the height of the cups so that the battery cells would have a snug fit….. well that is my theory. Compare pics and look at height of the 4-40 socket heads in comparison to upper deck.

[TRX-1-3]

Have you test fitted some batteries to see if they are loose with your current configuration? You could run a strip of dense foam tape on the underside of the hold down if you didn't want to shave down the cups. But if you are going for a super replica.......

[MarkyDents]

Looks like the tops of the socket heads are pretty even with the top of the upper chassis. A little more noticeable per how close the rear ones look to the bottom of the esc shelf.

[sandkil]

Have you test fitted some batteries to see if they are loose with your current configuration? You could run a strip of dense foam tape on the underside of the hold down if you didn't want to shave down the cups. But if you are going for a super replica.......

Looks like the tops of the socket heads are pretty even with the top of the upper chassis. A little more noticeable per how close the rear ones look to the bottom of the esc shelf.

I got the measurements of the Sanyo 1700 mAh SCR cells and the are about 22,3 mm in diameter.
Cups were sanded down about 2,5 mm and that got the hex screws almost flush with upper deck.

Also got the body done!

[scr8p]

Looking pretty good!