More Mugen Bulldog , transmission housing done .
For the Eagle eyed this one has a few minor additions to optimise it for FDM printing.
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It's difficult to see when you can't compare with the original part, my friend
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There are several paired posts that come out of the top and bottom of the transmission casing , I just added a web between them and extended it to bed level (only 1mm) , I also put a 45 degree chamfer on some overhangs
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Dadio wrote: ↑Sat Jul 22, 2023 7:37 pm
More Mugen Bulldog , transmission housing done .
For the Eagle eyed this one has a few minor additions to optimise it for FDM printing.
It's difficult to see when you can't compare with the original part, my friend
[/quote]
There are several paired posts that come out of the top and bottom of the transmission casing , I just added a web between them and extended it to bed level (only 1mm) , I also put a 45 degree chamfer on some overhangs
20230722_203707.jpg
20230722_203649.jpg
[/quote]
I suspected that, but as I don't know the Mugen Bulldog, I wasn't sure
I just found that I can fit the PB Mini Mustang chassis on the P1P print bed in one piece
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Mini Mustang chassis in CF PETG , going to work on a diff that uses Hotshot bevel gears as parts are very scarce now for the Mustang
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
silvertriple wrote: ↑Fri Aug 11, 2023 6:36 pm
Nice prints
Thanks , been working on the diff , looks possible .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
silvertriple wrote: ↑Fri Aug 11, 2023 6:36 pm
Nice prints
Thanks , been working on the diff , looks possible .
Well, the Big Bear ran with bevel gears printed in plain nylon in my Bambu Lab X1C for quite a while without a single issue... So yes, it should be possible (and I did not used a 0.2 mm nozzle for that).
silvertriple wrote: ↑Fri Aug 11, 2023 6:36 pm
Nice prints
Thanks , been working on the diff , looks possible .
Well, the Big Bear ran with bevel gears printed in plain nylon in my Bambu Lab X1C for quite a while without a single issue... So yes, it should be possible (and I did not used a 0.2 mm nozzle for that).
I'm planning on using the metal diff gears and outdrivres from the Hot Shot and just printing the toothed pulley and bearing adapters .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Hot Shot diff gears in a mini Mustang compatible diff , will need axles to match the more common dog bone size of the Hot Shot , uses 5x10 bearings and an adapter to fit the 13mm hole for the stock Mini Mustang bearing .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Just received an engineering plate and some PA6 CF from Bambu Lab yesterday , dried the filament for 20 hours and my first print has started
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
PA6 CF prints so well , printed some Mini Mustang arms and once I pressed in the ball studs they are free and smooth , often when you print a ball joint you have to hone them a bit , very impressed with the dimensional accuracy .
These arms and hubs are modified to use HotShot dog bones and axles to make a set to complement the Hotshot diff components .
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Interesting... I have some PA12 HT CF and PETG CF at home but did not tried to print yet with them... Time will come, as I have something in mind, but right now I'm focused on something else... I also heard about PC being very interesting for RC, and I must recognize I'm tempted to try... And the PA6 CF as well...
We use PA6 carbon for our no prep drag racing body mount/caster blocks and they hold up great at 100mph but the print is not the prettiest.
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silvertriple wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 2:59 pm
Interesting... I have some PA12 HT CF and PETG CF at home but did not tried to print yet with them... Time will come, as I have something in mind, but right now I'm focused on something else... I also heard about PC being very interesting for RC, and I must recognize I'm tempted to try... And the PA6 CF as well...
Did you print with the 0.4 mm nozzle?
Yes it's a 0.4 mm nozzle , one important thing is to dry the filament first even new out the sealed package , I dried this roll for 20+ hours before printing and the result is that xcellent
.
GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 3:13 pm
We use PA6 carbon for our no prep drag racing body mount/caster blocks and they hold up great at 100mph but the print is not the prettiest.
That finish is very like the Esun CF Nylon I was originally using , it was strong but more flexible and never had a glossy finish , the BambuLab PA6 CF has that nice satin shine and it has that crisp clatter when you drop it , expensive though £37 for half a kilo !
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
silvertriple wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 2:59 pm
Interesting... I have some PA12 HT CF and PETG CF at home but did not tried to print yet with them... Time will come, as I have something in mind, but right now I'm focused on something else... I also heard about PC being very interesting for RC, and I must recognize I'm tempted to try... And the PA6 CF as well...
Did you print with the 0.4 mm nozzle?
Yes it's a 0.4 mm nozzle , one important thing is to dry the filament first even new out the sealed package , I dried this roll for 20+ hours before printing and the result is that xcellent
.
GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 3:13 pm
We use PA6 carbon for our no prep drag racing body mount/caster blocks and they hold up great at 100mph but the print is not the prettiest.
That finish is very like the Esun CF Nylon I was originally using , it was strong but more flexible and never had a glossy finish , the BambuLab PA6 CF has that nice satin shine and it has that crisp clatter when you drop it , expensive though £37 for half a kilo !
I was aware for the drying, with Nylon, it should be almost the standard procedure...
I mentioned few days ago I would create this thread in one of my numerous thread where I actually speak about 3D modeling and 3D Prints in middle of vintage cars...
I currently have an Ender 5 Plus, which is stock beside the full metal...
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Something good happened this week.
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Hi, welcome.
Have a look on Shapeways j-sou has a shop on there where youbuy the items in the first photos.
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Looks like it tuned into radio Luxembourg as well.
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