(2) RC10GT's - Black Tub and Plastics - #7065

[klavy69]

IF you are wanting to open pandora's box you could redo your recoil. Picture the gag of the spring 'worm' out of the can of pringles type thing if you wanna have some fun with the voices in your head that told you not to mess with it. More than likely its just a weak spring or the spring picked up and let a notch or two come loose. You take the handle off the string and wind it a few times, feed it back through the pullstart hole, retie it to the handle and it will be good to go. Its good to have at least 4 hands while doing this . I did more than my fair share at the LHS to the point where when mine took a dump I just bought my first bumpstarter .

depending which battery post puller you get it might still scratch up your flywheel or if its like the ones in the picture the stamped metal prongs might spread or bend. I know I'm kinda old school but I used to get the stuck flywheels off with a vise. I use the vise as a support for the flywheel (not clamping it but just suspended between the jaws) and use a block of hardwood as a softener to hold on the crankshaft and give it a rap with a small hammer. Usually didn't have to get that extreme but it worked.

Todd

[GreenBar0n]

IF you are wanting to open pandora's box you could redo your recoil. Picture the gag of the spring 'worm' out of the can of pringles type thing if you wanna have some fun with the voices in your head that told you not to mess with it. More than likely its just a weak spring or the spring picked up and let a notch or two come loose. You take the handle off the string and wind it a few times, feed it back through the pullstart hole, retie it to the handle and it will be good to go. Its good to have at least 4 hands while doing this . I did more than my fair share at the LHS to the point where when mine took a dump I just bought my first bumpstarter .

depending which battery post puller you get it might still scratch up your flywheel or if its like the ones in the picture the stamped metal prongs might spread or bend. I know I'm kinda old school but I used to get the stuck flywheels off with a vise. I use the vise as a support for the flywheel (not clamping it but just suspended between the jaws) and use a block of hardwood as a softener to hold on the crankshaft and give it a rap with a small hammer. Usually didn't have to get that extreme but it worked.

Todd

Thanks @klavy69!

The rope inside that recoil looks really badly stretched near the handle. I can't understand how it got so bad, with such little use. And after I had cleaned a bunch of screws in the ultrasonic cleaner, and then rinsed them off in the sink, the garbage disposal ate one of the (4) recoil screws - out of all the screws/bolts, it had to be one of those, I have a replacement for everything else. I'll go ahead and get the new recoil, but without the one way bearing which doubles the cost, it comes with fresh screws and a new rope, and I can feel my old bearing is still good. What's another $35 at this point .

I have some neoprene with adhesive back, to put in the puller jaws, to keep that soft aluminum flywheel from scratching. OS makes a puller tool for $40, that Hudy sells for $10:

[GreenBar0n]

Took a look to make sure the one way bearing was still good in the #2 CV engine recoil, turns out the bearing is glued in, strongly.


The CZ version on the right, is one model older, has had many more hours and pulls on it, and works like new still; the bearing is not glued in.




Trying to put that spring back in the lousy recoil unit was more trouble than it's worth, so I wadded up and threw the full amount at a new recoil unit that has the modular one way bearing, not glued in, I really believe that's part of the problem.



I'll keep the old recoil parts, just in case.

Hoping to have a full Tx/Rx set for both GT's tomorrow.

[GreenBar0n]

Got the flywheel puller today.


With a 'crack' it pulled off in less time than it took to setup this pic.


GT #1 engine ready to go, this one has what I think is the MIP clutch in it.


Need to find another air filter/carb rubber boot like above, for #2.

[GreenBar0n]

#2's body arrived today, by way of J Concepts, then a brief stop over at Andy's.





Stock box art decals, or no decals? Rear wing, or no rear wing? What would you do? (Strictly for display purposes)

[romulus22]

Hard to go wrong with box art decal look. At least you know what it’ll look like. Definitely needs the spoiler though.

[RC10th]

+1 for box art decals and spoiler

[Dangeruss]

Box Art?? Nooo.....

Go full Baron on it!

[GreenBar0n]

Box Art?? Nooo.....


Green Baron.jpg


Go full Baron on it!

That would be epic! Can you imagine the disgust and retribution that would bring me, defacing Andy's work like that.


The box art decal votes have it. This won't be an easy feat though to get all of those decals, specifically the ASC7197 sheet, to make matters worse there are (2) versions of the 7197 sheet, the GT2 (blue pan version) also calls it 7197 and it's completely different.


There were at least (3) decal sheets in the GT box, 7197, 6196 (?), and 3811. The front RC10gt sticker across the hood I can't find on any sheet.

3811

[GreenBar0n]

#2's engine problems:
Carb rotary slide is frozen in one spot, soaking it in 99% alcohol, will give it the heat gun treatment, after a few hours in the sauce.


I need to get a longer head bolt, to reach down further in to the OS .12 case, past the stripped thread section, and grab the remaining threads below, there are plenty, at least another 5-8mm.

The problem I'm having is the dimensions, is this an M2, or an M3 bolt? I measured the diameter of the current head-bolt shaft with some cheapy HF calipers:


When I look at a chart, the shaft diameter measurement would seem to be an M3 according to this:


Can anyone figure out what I need?

The current shaft length of the head bolt is 12mm, between 17-20mm would be the ideal length, but need to figure out diameter and thread pitch still.

[RC10th]

I think they are 2.5mm from memory, or 2.8mm.... They are a weird size....

@ the green baron themed GT

[GreenBar0n]

I think they are 2.5mm from memory, or 2.8mm.... They are a weird size....

@ the green baron themed GT

I'll just order a bolt kit with M2 and M3, and hope to get it right.

[GreenBar0n]

Found a place that appears to sell reproductions of all of the box art RC10gt decals. Anyone have any experience with this shop?
https://mciracing.ca/products/1-10th-associated-rc10-gt-box-art-decals



That sure looks like all of them.

Just noticed that the box art decals cover the 10 in RC10, with GT. They must've had to cut up the GT decals because they were too wide for the wing and doors.


They took Paypal, $23.73 for the sheet above. We'll see how this turns out. Very little risk to reward here.

[GreenBar0n]

I never watched this tape, all of these years, I winged mine out of the box, AKA the 'hard way'. I missed so much vital info, so glad to be able to watch this now.

[GreenBar0n]

Found the correct specs on the OS Max .12 CV head bolts, M2.6x12 is what it came with.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/645611/O-S-Engine-Max-12cv-Series.html?page=21#manual

I found M2.6x16mm at the longest. Really wanted 20mm, so I could cut it to be as long as possible.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/socket-head-cap-screws/thread-size~m2-6/length~16-mm/

Found some M2.5x20 with 0.45mm thread pitch, shorter head cap, but these should work.