juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sat May 25, 2024 7:38 pm
For my fishing reels, I make my own mix of TSI 321, Corrosion X, and 99% IPA. It's mostly alcohol as a carrier fluid.
I flood the bearings in it and let the alcohol evaporate, leaving a thin film of TSI and Cor X.
99% IPA?? How many beers in before you forget there's a bearing sloshing around the bottom of your pale ale??
Glug...Glug...
Isopropyl alcohol, 99%.
I just use Iso-Heet, as it is 99%+ IPA, with a slight amount of ethelbenzene. Easy to find and works great.
Always looking for new and interesting ways to waste money.
GoMachV wrote: ↑Fri May 24, 2024 6:05 pm
... We are running chinese $1 a pop bearings these days vs the $80 high end NMB bearings sets back in the day.
That's true and the difference is night and day.
I have some of those early metal shielded bearings and they're still smooth and spin forever.
By contrast, I've had to replace many of the modern cheap bearings from Avid - even those with rubber seals.
You get what you pay for.
I found that if you pull the rubber shields off they are good bearings underneath.
GoMachV wrote: ↑Fri May 24, 2024 6:05 pm
... We are running chinese $1 a pop bearings these days vs the $80 high end NMB bearings sets back in the day.
That's true and the difference is night and day.
I have some of those early metal shielded bearings and they're still smooth and spin forever.
By contrast, I've had to replace many of the modern cheap bearings from Avid - even those with rubber seals.
You get what you pay for.
I found that if you pull the rubber shields off they are good bearings underneath.
Avid balls and races look good; they appear to be accurately machined with very smooth surface finish. However, it's been my experience that when used in a dusty application, they will fail so maybe the steel Avid is using is less hard than more costly bearings.
I'm not knocking Avid since they offer a budget friendly option. I know that when I use a set in my off-road RC's, I will be replacing them at some point.
Just need the 4-40 set screws to get the diff lock going, may have to order some. These are sealed bearings so they won't do a 15 second spin, $32 turned out to be the deciding factor on this .
I'll still do the rest of the guide steps, no hurry on this one though.
I like your choice of motor.
I kept 2 or 3 in my rotation of motors from mid 80's thru mid 90's.
I had better luck with the earlier 1985 version over the later version of the silver labeled 1987 Monster Horsepower stock motors.
Still have those motors today.
radioactivity wrote: ↑Wed May 29, 2024 10:09 pm
I like your choice of motor.
I kept 2 or 3 in my rotation of motors from mid 80's thru mid 90's.
I had better luck with the earlier 1985 version over the later version of the silver labeled 1987 Monster Horsepower stock motors.
Still have those motors today.
Though it was overkill for my cars and my ability, I ran the 1985 ESC-190 Pro (P) black sticker, golden letters, 6 + 2 FET.
Bought it as soon as I could afford it.
It was the only ESC I ran for probably 10 years and it still runs just like new.
radioactivity wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2024 1:15 pm
Though it was overkill for my cars and my ability, I ran the 1985 ESC-190 Pro (P) black sticker, golden letters, 6 + 2 FET.
Bought it as soon as I could afford it.
Tekin ESC190.JPG
It was the only ESC I ran for probably 10 years and it still runs just like new.
Still in my Delta Spyder.
delta5.JPG
Chuck
Oh my... Seeing that Spyder brings back so many memories. Tom Sagle, a fellow racer from bitd, raced Delta almost exclusively -- including their incredible 1/8 scale nitro road cars. He always brought the coolest cars to the track and was certain to qualify for A mains. I thought if I could beat Tom, I'd made it as a racer. It never happened.
Delta made some serious race cars.
JosephS wrote: ↑Sun May 05, 2024 4:17 pm
The newer editions of the gears are beige.
That was for the 2013 as well as the cc release.
Does anyone know if they are sturdier than the original gears?
Would also be curious to know the answer to this.
Just catching up on this thread...
The idler gears on both the 2013 and the 2024 40th car are glass fiber filled nylon (hence the darker color) and should be much more stronger and durable than the plain nylon idler gears of days gone by...
radioactivity wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2024 1:15 pm
Though it was overkill for my cars and my ability, I ran the 1985 ESC-190 Pro (P) black sticker, golden letters, 6 + 2 FET.
Bought it as soon as I could afford it.
Tekin ESC190.JPG
It was the only ESC I ran for probably 10 years and it still runs just like new.
Still in my Delta Spyder.
Chuck
Thanks for the info on the Tekin, that looks like an excellent alternative to the NESC-1. Neither are inexpensive, but if they still work after all of this time, they're worth the current asking price.
1:12 on road looks like a lot of fun for racing. Really appreciate how clean yours is.
Is there a modern 1:12 car that you like these days? Would love to rebuild an old RC12L, or similar some day.
Just saying. And those probably aren't their top of the line bearings.
Going back in time the bearings would have been slightly above average price
Screenshot 2024-05-31 at 10.21.24 AM.png (27.19 KiB) Viewed 38 times
Screenshot 2024-05-31 at 10.21.24 AM.png (27.19 KiB) Viewed 38 times
I have been curious about that. Ball bearings used to be crazy expensive. I remember buying my boca bearing for $30 from them back on the day. Inflation adjusted a modern set of avid bearings would have been $8. Did something happen? Why did they get so cheap?
Hey Guys,
I dug out my RC10 from storage and have been in the process of bringing it back. Besides it missing the wheels the trans is pretty noisy. The idlers are stripped out. This is an original first production run RC10 with no stamp on the...
Last post
De burring the gears involves grinding away at the edges to remove the lumps on the edges. It's outlined in the Jay Halsey transmission guide.
What year did AE use the black idler gear for the 1st generation grarbox? I know the first kits came out with the white gear but I do not know when they stopped using it.. Anyone? :)
Last post
the black idler gears were on the rc10 graphite released in 1989. the tq10 didnt have the updated idlers when it was released. they must be good gears because mine still look new and my car is still being raced today
I bought this car new the first year it was introduced. Had fun with it bashing and even got some racing in with it. When my son reached 12 he took an interest in RC cars and wanted this one, Seeing an excuse to buy an improved new one I thought...
:?:
Does anyone know the hex size for the tiny screws that hold the bushing in the idler gear on the six gear tranny? None of the sizes I have seem to fit it, and I want to put bearings in it.
Last post
The heads of the screws strip very easily...I've had to notch a few with a dremel to remove...not hard with a cutting wheel but a pain none the less...
I have used fine valve grinding paste on the tip of the wrench with good success. Also helpful...
Hey guys im new to this forum and i have a question i have a rc10t and i put a brushless system in it and when i went out to take it for a test drive i completely striped the idler gear in the tranny and my local hobby shop doesn't carry any...
Last post
I found one on eBay for 13 bucks and that's shipped is it the same on their site or is that the only site I can get it from?
Hello all, i've just got to the part to fit the idler gear screws and there's no allen key in the kit that will fit, could someone tell me the size please so i can get one.
thanks in advance Jonathan.
Last post
I snipped off about an inch of the L-shaped key and used it in a small drill pin vice; it made it MUCH easier to get the screws in straight.
can someone point me in the right direction. I can't seem to find any info using the search button or maybe I'm just not typing the correct words. thanks gents.