My daughter want a phone case (she tends to abuse of them )
It's good time to start a first TPU test, with a 95A shore TPU. It's from Sunlu. It is the typical TPU you would find almost everywhere. I can print it on the X1C from the external spool holder with the Generic TPU profile without any modifications. It's not fully dry so the print is running directly from the dryer, and as matter of fact, the position from entry of the PTFE tube is not practical in this case... I applied glue on the plate to ease the realease (TPU adheres well on beds, and with PEI, removal can damage PEI coating).
The print should take about 2 hours and a quarter, I'll update later.
SilverTriple's printing stuff...
- silvertriple
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- silvertriple
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- Posts: 1951
- Joined: Sun May 02, 2021 2:31 pm
- Location: France, Isere
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Re: SilverTriple's printing stuff...
Print was almost flawless... I'm saying almost as the slicer is possibly a little bit optimistic on the bridge length as the volume button opening had some defects... It doesn't generate any supports there, I guess I should have paint them.
That said, the result is good once I cleaned the bridge defect.
And for those asking how I did, the stl is a plain one, I just used infill pattern with 0 bottom and top layers to get this result... And while I think about this, it may be a way to make a nice thin flexible mesh to make very scale windows
That said, the result is good once I cleaned the bridge defect.
And for those asking how I did, the stl is a plain one, I just used infill pattern with 0 bottom and top layers to get this result... And while I think about this, it may be a way to make a nice thin flexible mesh to make very scale windows
I buy kits to build and ru(i)n them
- silvertriple
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Re: SilverTriple's printing stuff...
I really enter now in the TPU testing, really...
Some test with TPU 95A : infill pattern impact (there is a file were someone did exactly this on Makerworld, I decided to use it). At the end I can tell than grid, cubic or anyother relying on parallel lines are not what we want for TPU. Honeycomb infill, on the other side seem to be the perfect candidate for bumpers as it is strong in all direction, while still allowing for some flexibility. Gyroid maybe ok for tires in 95A TPU from what I could see from this test.
Based on this I proceeded in a second test which aims to approach what we would see witha tire printed in TPU 95A. I used 2 top and bottom layers, and gyroid infill 3% - 24% by 3% increment. The result is that it maybe fine without side walls, but with the sine walls, the side walls are too strong so it doesn't behave at all like a tire... So this confirms more or less what I had in mind with all my previous TPU and Foaming TPU tests.
Next in line, I have a roll of Recreus Filaflex 60A. it's not TPU but TPE. The filament is highly flexible and it is difficult to load due to the friction in the PTFE tube (no way to go thru the tube - this confirms the upper mount is absolutely required for this type of filament). At the end I did a cold pull with PETG to remove anything from the hot end before loading it, and then I loaded it from the upper mount (the shorter tube is allowing it to load, with a little bit of persuasion - I suspect that it would not have worked if I did not cold pull before.
Recreus has made a profile for the filament and it is available on makerworld. I downloaded it, and use it with my test model.
One thing I can already say while a long print is in progress is that when there is accumulation of material, this doesn't behave like the TPU : the material bonds together and it seems that it remains flexible. For tires this might be exactly what we are looking for... Anyway, first test print is in progress...
Some test with TPU 95A : infill pattern impact (there is a file were someone did exactly this on Makerworld, I decided to use it). At the end I can tell than grid, cubic or anyother relying on parallel lines are not what we want for TPU. Honeycomb infill, on the other side seem to be the perfect candidate for bumpers as it is strong in all direction, while still allowing for some flexibility. Gyroid maybe ok for tires in 95A TPU from what I could see from this test.
Based on this I proceeded in a second test which aims to approach what we would see witha tire printed in TPU 95A. I used 2 top and bottom layers, and gyroid infill 3% - 24% by 3% increment. The result is that it maybe fine without side walls, but with the sine walls, the side walls are too strong so it doesn't behave at all like a tire... So this confirms more or less what I had in mind with all my previous TPU and Foaming TPU tests.
Next in line, I have a roll of Recreus Filaflex 60A. it's not TPU but TPE. The filament is highly flexible and it is difficult to load due to the friction in the PTFE tube (no way to go thru the tube - this confirms the upper mount is absolutely required for this type of filament). At the end I did a cold pull with PETG to remove anything from the hot end before loading it, and then I loaded it from the upper mount (the shorter tube is allowing it to load, with a little bit of persuasion - I suspect that it would not have worked if I did not cold pull before.
Recreus has made a profile for the filament and it is available on makerworld. I downloaded it, and use it with my test model.
One thing I can already say while a long print is in progress is that when there is accumulation of material, this doesn't behave like the TPU : the material bonds together and it seems that it remains flexible. For tires this might be exactly what we are looking for... Anyway, first test print is in progress...
I buy kits to build and ru(i)n them
- silvertriple
- Approved Member
- Posts: 1951
- Joined: Sun May 02, 2021 2:31 pm
- Location: France, Isere
- Has thanked: 653 times
- Been thanked: 1138 times
Re: SilverTriple's printing stuff...
The print is over...
The result is really encouraging, and this means we may have another solution than Resin to print tires, because at the end it feels like the rubber of a tire...
The result is really encouraging, and this means we may have another solution than Resin to print tires, because at the end it feels like the rubber of a tire...
I buy kits to build and ru(i)n them
- silvertriple
- Approved Member
- Posts: 1951
- Joined: Sun May 02, 2021 2:31 pm
- Location: France, Isere
- Has thanked: 653 times
- Been thanked: 1138 times
Re: SilverTriple's printing stuff...
Prints are helping in many areas unrelated to RC... The winter is the period we do what we call "raclette" with melted cheese... There is a tool for this, and everytime I used it in the past, I complained about the nuts : in the kitchen, you rarely have a wrench at hand, and tighten nut by hand is not practical.
I augmented the tool with nut knobs...
The print is again relying on a pause to insert nuts in th knobs...
https://makerworld.com/en/models/817791
I augmented the tool with nut knobs...
The print is again relying on a pause to insert nuts in th knobs...
https://makerworld.com/en/models/817791
I buy kits to build and ru(i)n them
- silvertriple
- Approved Member
- Posts: 1951
- Joined: Sun May 02, 2021 2:31 pm
- Location: France, Isere
- Has thanked: 653 times
- Been thanked: 1138 times
Re: SilverTriple's printing stuff...
I have a few tools used for modelism only, and they maybe very practical on the field. I decided to create a box for that... I include the Arrowmax drill press and some other motor more suitable for rotary sanding, and as well a small vice.
To close the lid and maintained it closed, I opted for a small mecanism relying on a printed in place knob with inserted nuts during a print pause.
The drawing is upside down, and you may note how the hole is bridged in order to avoid requirement for any supports.
And it works perfectly once the knobs are free...
To close the lid and maintained it closed, I opted for a small mecanism relying on a printed in place knob with inserted nuts during a print pause.
The drawing is upside down, and you may note how the hole is bridged in order to avoid requirement for any supports.
And it works perfectly once the knobs are free...
I buy kits to build and ru(i)n them
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