The Kinwald Edition RC10 (it is here!)

[scr8p]

Here's the build thread of my car. There's a pic of the bulkhead just sitting on the bench after the mods. Also notice my screw up on the antenna mount. I angle cut the wrong side by accident.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=41196

[RogueIV]

Uh oh, what I miss?

I know the MIP CVD's is one, but it at least has the CVA's. I also didn't discuss trimming the wheels.

I realized I missed the CVD's after I was after I had completed editing the video. I didn't want to dig the stuff back out and film it, then redo the video .

The new batch of CVD's are nice though because the cup has the shape of the early ones, which were on Brian's car. I also mentioned to Eustace on a recent livestream that he should consider offering the RC10 and 10t kits with 3/16 axles. He already made them for the DS, just needs to package them up.

You got most of it I don't think you missed much! I'm probably going to do a more detailed look at the original's body, at the 93 worlds and want changed after at the Reedy Race in Japan where the chassis ended up stolen.

That and if I find any other details while I'm building mine.

I really want to make a model of those custom body mounts. I might wing it and see how it looks unless I can get dimensions of it.

[scr8p]

My rear one is actually too tall. It doesn't let the body sit as low as it should.

I'd have to dig the car back out, but they're the same diameter as a stock body mount. 8-32 screw. The rear one has the same pin height as a stock mount, but the pedestal holds the body up. May need to be 3/16" to 1/4" shorter. The front was made the same way, but joe left the post really long so I could drill the hole where I needed it and cut off the excess.

[DSaw78]

I think I'm going to use the black body posts off the front of this Lynx to make something that looks close enough. Until someone decides to make the actual looking ones


The only issue that I just though about is they use a 4-40 screw and I don't think there's enough meat there to drill out and use a 8-32 one.

[DSaw78]

Got mine yesterday and immediately went to work on the chassis doing the countersink where needed, etc. Waiting on some hardware to arrive before I can go much further so I had a couple questions.

How much do I need to cut off the wing tubes? Like a 1/4" maybe? What length ball studs are those in the rear bulkhead so a lock nut can be used?

Also on mine, I'm using some yellow phillips screws from KNK but I noticed the nose plate doesn't tighten down even with the steering all the way tight. I think the holes in the chassis are a little large and the screw bottoms out on the nose plate instead of the chassis. I fit the nose tubes and that took care of it but still.

[scr8p]

Not sure on the wing tubes. I'd have to measure and compare them to others

Bulkhead ball stud will be the same as the rear hubs and castor blocks (.300 I believe)

You may have to chamfer the holes on the nose plate sligthly to allow the screw to seat properly.

[DSaw78]

Thanks for the info. My '14 Worlds car has B6 ball studs on it now so I may have a couple left from it I can use on the bulkhead.

[RogueIV]

few things at a glance. I'll add more details to this later. A good amount of this was in Jason's video.

-Update 6/9/25: obviously no longer "at a glance" Updates will happen anytime I find new info. Information here is In regards to the car as it raced at the '93 IFMAR Worlds. Note that the car was ever changing during the event and also continued to change after the Worlds till it was ultimately stolen at the Reedy Race in Japan.

Missing Countersinks:
-2x tub sides that the nose tubes mount to
-2x rear of rear shock tower for the shock mount screws
-2x rear of front shock tower for the shock mount screws
-4x top side of trans brace for 4-40 screws.
-1x 100deg countersink for the body mount(bottom side)

Nose plate cut needs to be contoured more.

Nose plate cut (worlds cut) near the belcranks need to have anodizing removed/sanded off the edge to appear "machined".

Front of tub angle cut as shown in Jason's video.

top of rear arm webbing needs to be machined flush with bosses.

Bottom of rear web on rear arms need relief cut.

Missing middle hole in rear bulkhead. this hole is supposed to be 0.180" from the existing inner hole. Also outside needs to be cut like Jason showed in his video.

Rear Chassis Bend after the arm mounts with new central hole drilled. The screw hole used varies depending on the pictures I've seen. Pictures from the worlds show a BHCS in the right hole. Magazine pictures of it in the center with a nut on the inside (and a totally different motor plate.)

Slash cut and ridge delete on the antenna mount.

Battery box needs to be cut down.

Front bulkheads need to be drilled and tapped for a 4-40 set screw.

Turnbuckles have cuts to show direction, while nice this isn't what the original car had. The FanRC turnbuckles are a better fit and look more like the RCPS originals.

Brian used mostly Titanium 4-40 screws (Lundsford) Stainless is a close look to them. Looks like just about anything that was a Flathead Socket Cap Screw (FHSCS) was titanium. There's a few different SHCS used as well, front shock collars and rear tub to bulkhead use anodized blue aluminum screws while the rear shock collars appear to be either stainless of titanium.

Battery hold down used a pair of phillips head screws, unsure of the material, look to be beat up steel though.

He also used 2 natural Nylon nuts at the top mount of each shock and a cut down shock spacer between the 2 nuts.

Yellow Aluminum (some people call it green) 8-32 screws were used on the original. Steel socket head ones were included.

Rear arm mounts used low profile aluminum nuts on top of the rear screws.

need aprox 9 blue ano 4-40 mini lock nuts (steering linkage, front tower ballstuds, and rear camberlink ballstuds) and 2 natural ones.(front c-hub ballstuds)

2x blue ano aluminum contersink washers used to mount front tower with titanium FHSCS.

Wrong style CVDs supplied with the kit with cup on the axle side instead of the bone side.

Rear hub carriers supplied in the kit are 0 deg ones and also have a bit of a green hue to them. Brian reportedly used 3deg carriers (1.5deg per side) the inner arm mounts are the correct 3deg models (1.5 per side) as well for a total of 6deg of rear tow in. The inner mounts were installed in the forward position (short wheelbase) instructions show conflicting info.

Need black eyelets, perches and clamps for the front shocks.

Black antenna tube should be a Red one.

Black ball cups on servo linkage. rest are white.

Tires are not right. But understandable. Should be Proline 8105 XTR Wide 5 in front and Proline 8086 XTR Flat Stubbies in the rear.

need to machine the outer lips down to the bead of the wheels

needs a hydradrive "pat pend", with black steel fill screws, and black Kimborough spur gear. Magazine trim it had a Green Losi Spur.

needs custom hollow black body mounts (I have a 3d model for these but need to confirm dimensions before i release them.)

Belcranks don't have the step like the Composite Craft ones had.

foam battery pad needed

Looks like Brian may have used Losi axles up front as they have a much bigger nut. Likely the "Pro" model that had a 5-40 set screw at the back for holding the kingpin in place.

He had Titanium hinge pins throughout, but I think he might have had an issue sourcing all the proper sizes as I see the following in the worlds' photos:
Longer hinge pin from the outer arms for the kingpin.
Longer hinge pins on the rear inner arms. you can see he added some white spacers to take up the slack in the photos at the worlds. unsure how much longer these were or what they were supposed to for.

E-clips:
-I think he ran a mix of e-clips, where he actually used them. The front kingpin and outer arm pins he used silver ones, or well worn black oxide ones. He didn't run any clips on the inners of the front arms I don't think he had a clip on the botton of the kingpins Rear look like black e-clips. at least the ones i can see.

Missing/incorrect decals:
MIP, missing
HPI, incorrect "HIP" decal included
ezekiel, Incorrect "ezekool" decal included
RC10 decals for wings, while close, original (during the '93 Worlds) was 2 decals layered ontop of each other. Left side had more of an offset than right side. Later (after '93 Reedy Race) the Pink decals were removed leaving only the Yellow ones.

Shock setup (according to magazine review):
Front #1 pistons, .060" internal limiters. 30wt Black Springs. Mounted to outside holes on arm.
Rear #1 pistons, .090" internal limiters. 30wt Green Springs. Mounted to outside holes on arm.
Note about this magazine article, it states that he towers have more than 1 set of holes, I can't tell if these were added after the race or if these exist at all as the pictures in the article are too grainy for me to see any other holes.

Other things of interest:
The car's setup changed over the race day as is the tradition of this sport . Brian did no equip the car with the hydradrive till his last qualifier and up to that point hadn't even been qualified for the A main. It helped dramatically helping him seed 8th in the A-main. This also caused Gene Hustings to run out and buy all of the RC10 hydradrive kits (4 of them) from the local hobby shop and 2 more from other drivers in the pits for his team to use.

During qualifying Brian appears to have been using 3pc wheels up front but changed them to single piece wheels for the mains. There was also rumors that AE was experimenting with weighted front wheels during the event. This also continued at the later Reedy Race in Japan where you can see Brian's car had 8 screws added to the front wheels.

[XLR8]

What gear cover did Brian use? Will the kit supplied gear cover fit over a Hydradrive or should we order the repop from TBG?
I'm not yet ready to build mine so I haven't yet opened the box nor have I rummaged around in the attic to find the Hydradrive.
I'd like to get the cover ordered asap if it's needed.

[rraeford]

So that was just a glance, huh? I look forward to a more comprehensive list.
Kidding, of course.

[RogueIV]

So that was just a glance, huh? I look forward to a more comprehensive list.
Kidding, of course.

I'm sure the list will get bigger when i start actually building the car.

[RogueIV]

What gear cover did Brian use? Will the kit supplied gear cover fit over a Hydradrive or should we order the repop from TBG?
I'm not yet ready to build mine so I haven't yet opened the box nor have I rummaged around in the attic to find the Hydradrive.
I'd like to get the cover ordered asap if it's needed.

Nope no way the one in the kit will fit over a hydradrive. Not many pictures of the one Brian used but it appears he used a RC10T lexan cover like this https://teambluegroove.com/products/rc-10t-rc10t-rc10-rc-10-gear-cover-free-ship-w-body?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=ab85ed1ae&pr_rec_pid=6713012912294&pr_ref_pid=6712985288870&pr_seq=uniform I don't know if it will fit or not because i'm not sue if the car had the hydra drive on when this picture was taken.

57_643bb7e6-666a-4c1b-92b9-248af12ac2da_540x.jpg (42.98 KiB) Viewed 160 times

57_643bb7e6-666a-4c1b-92b9-248af12ac2da_540x.jpg (42.98 KiB) Viewed 160 times

They have a hydradrive specific one too, but I haven't seen a pic with that style of cover fitted.

[XLR8]

What gear cover did Brian use? Will the kit supplied gear cover fit over a Hydradrive or should we order the repop from TBG?
I'm not yet ready to build mine so I haven't yet opened the box nor have I rummaged around in the attic to find the Hydradrive.
I'd like to get the cover ordered asap if it's needed.

Nope no way the one in the kit will fit over a hydradrive. Not many pictures of the one Brian used but it appears he used a RC10T lexan cover like this https://teambluegroove.com/products/rc-10t-rc10t-rc10-rc-10-gear-cover-free-ship-w-body?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=ab85ed1ae&pr_rec_pid=6713012912294&pr_ref_pid=6712985288870&pr_seq=uniform I don't know if it will fit or not because i'm not sue if the car had the hydra drive on when this picture was taken.
Screenshot 2025-06-07 225520.jpg 57_643bb7e6-666a-4c1b-92b9-248af12ac2da_540x.jpg

They have a hydradrive specific one too, but I haven't seen a pic with that style of cover fitted.

Me neither and I don't believe the 10T cover will fit over the Hydradrive.
I've just browsed Cedric's build again and none of the surviving photos show his car with a gear cover. However, he does mention "building" a cover.
I got my Hydradrive used and without the original packaging. Did the kit include a gear cover or was it sold separately?

[XLR8]

What gear cover did Brian use? Will the kit supplied gear cover fit over a Hydradrive or should we order the repop from TBG?
I'm not yet ready to build mine so I haven't yet opened the box nor have I rummaged around in the attic to find the Hydradrive.
I'd like to get the cover ordered asap if it's needed.

Nope no way the one in the kit will fit over a hydradrive. Not many pictures of the one Brian used but it appears he used a RC10T lexan cover like this https://teambluegroove.com/products/rc-10t-rc10t-rc10-rc-10-gear-cover-free-ship-w-body?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=ab85ed1ae&pr_rec_pid=6713012912294&pr_ref_pid=6712985288870&pr_seq=uniform I don't know if it will fit or not because i'm not sue if the car had the hydra drive on when this picture was taken.
Screenshot 2025-06-07 225520.jpg 57_643bb7e6-666a-4c1b-92b9-248af12ac2da_540x.jpg

They have a hydradrive specific one too, but I haven't seen a pic with that style of cover fitted.

[scr8p]

I was debating making a part 2 to my video to address a few things. The CVDs being one, and maybe a few detail RougeIV mentioned like removing the ano on the back end of the nose plate. But also in regards to the gear cover.

No, the stock cover will definitely not fit a Hydradrive, nor will the one in the kit. I'm pretty sure I was told this, he actually used 2 of the stock AE gear covers. trimmed the tapered and ribbed section off the one that mounts to the motor plate, trimmed another to extend that section, and glued them together.

I need to look into that more...